2007 F-150 5.4 3 valve XLT

I may be dealing with a few different problems here but maybe they are all related. The background is that I recently did a full timing job and also replaced the cams, lifters, rockers, and VCT solenoids. The engine will run great and I am getting no codes so I’m very confident that the maintenance was done correctly.



My first issue is that the truck will fire up just fine when it’s cold and the engine runs great…. After driving around for a while and getting warmed up it will eventually stall out when I come to a stop. When I try to restart it the starter can’t crank the engine as if the battery were dead. If I let the truck sit and cool off for quite a while then it will go back to firing right back up. I bought a brand new battery and have tested the alternator by removing the battery cables while running and also checked the amps with a multi-meter and it was well above 14 Volts. I’m confident that the battery and alternator are both serviceable. Could this be starter heat soak?? I also have other issues.



The second issue is that when driving the truck it doesn’t have near the power that it should! The motor revs and RPM’s climb but the truck is not powerful and shifts hard during acceleration after the engine reaches around 3500 RPM’s. If I let off the gas it will shift a little sooner but still doesn’t have power and takes forever to pickup speed. The truck is very sluggish and not responsive.



The third issue…. Which I would assume is most likely related to the second one is that there is a very noticeable ticking/knocking sound coming from the truck when it’s running. It will speed up and get louder when I rev the motor up in park or when I’m driving and try to accelerate. I used my stethoscope and pin pointed where the sound is coming from and it is definitely where the transmission mates to the engine. I pulled the round plastic plug and could see the flywheel and everything appeared to be ok. I took a video with my phone from the drivers side wheel well while revving the motor in park that I will attempt to attach. I did a parasitic battery drain test and found that fuses 21 and 24 each had a constant draw of .4 each with the truck off. I am getting the following DTC’s that didn’t seem to point towards anything in my opinion..



P1000

B1676-20

B1352-60

C1222



I also have Forscan but I am a beginner with it so if anybody has recommendations on live tests to run please let me know. I tried to be as detailed as possible but if there are any other questions please let me know and I will elaborate. Thanks in advance!!

 

Disregard the P1000 code, that only tells us the battery was recently disconnected which could be by something you did or poor connections in the system.

The B1676 code is telling us there is a poor connection supplying power to the components in the vehicle.
B1352 code picking up a problem with key in ign , engine off and warning chime going off. Check for faulty door ajar sw.

C1222- inconsistent signals from wheel speed sensors, this could also be caused by insufficient power to components.

Appears vehicle has several questionable connections where usual full power is not available.

Need to verify full 12 volts is available to fuse panels (Power dist panel in engine compt., and fuse panel in vehicle . (Smart Junction Box under left side of dash)