Okay, so my 2013 Ford F-150 XL 5.0L has the child lock turned on on the back passenger door. I turned it on due to my child wanting to whip open his door every time we stopped somewhere. No big deal, right? WRONG!! Somehow, the CHILD LOCK has decided to break or rust itself SHUT and now I cannot get the dang door open. How do I get this thing open so I can go back to using my truck and my kid can get back in his seat? It was working fine all last week, had a rainstorm and now it does not work. The door mechanism for the regular lock works just fine. It is the CHILD LOCK that is malfunctioning. I don't need help with the regular lock. I am not stupid and have already checked and tried what was suggested before this thread. PLEASE HELP!!

 

You might consider checking with a local locksmith,they should be cheaper than a dealership, and he should be able to at least get the door open and give you some idea of cost to repair..

 

I've called a locksmith. They said there's nothing they will do since it's "not locked".

 

Check my signature below.

 

I have no idea what this means. Can you explain?

 

The local locksmith said he won't bother checking it out because it's not the door lock so it's not in his wheelhouse.

 

The door has to be open to remove the covering in order to find what is not working..

Many times a police dept has a slim jim tool to open a vehicle door if the keys were locked inside.

You will need to find a shop that can handle the job from start to finish.

 

I was referring to specify your vehicle info on the very first line everytime you ask a question.
I see you revised your 1st post and added "2013 Ford F-150 XL", XL is not engine size but a model trim. When you ask a question here or looking for auto parts online, you specify not the model trim XL but the engine size, you do that for ford, doesn't matter it's body, electrical or mechanical. Let say this is a BMW forum, you specify year+chassis code+engine size, Honda Civic forum you specify year+door+model trim+engine size. Every car make is different. For Ford you check my signature below.
I asked that just because I have alldata software and it covers all car make/model up to 2007, you have 2013, it's too new unfortunately so I don't have any diagram to provide. Even if my alldata supports your vehicle engine size is missing still, it's a required info to pull up any vehicle repair info. That said, you put "2013 Ford F-150 your_engine_size_here".

What I'd do:
Remove the LEFT (driver side) inner door panel as a reference then you can tell if you can unlatch the latch from the window gap using a coat hanger or remove the inside door handle bezel or whatever trim that's removable. When you decide to unlatch from inside your truck you know you have to cut the moisture barrier. If you use coat hanger mask the sharp edge/tip.

When your door gets stuck you need to know the possibility (after you get the door to open):
1) wiring problem
2) door lock actuator needs just a simple cleaning/lubricating
3) door lock actuator needs replacement
4) electrical glitch

For wiring problem, assuming you have your LEFT door inside panel already removed, you can unplug the door lock actuator connector, then you can find out which 2 wires operate the lock/unlock. Also remove the rubber wire harness loom, the driver front door sill, just to find out how that harness is routed to the left rear. Do that same for RIGHT front. Your goal is to find out which 2 wires going to your right rear door lock actuator so you can intercept (cutting/splicing) the two wires at your RIGHT front door sill or wherever they are located, assuming it's a harness from your CSM module.
For simple cleaning/lubricating use only dry lube.
Even if your actuator is dead you can still manually unlatch the latch to open the door, just need to bend the coat hanger correctly and be patient. You might need to mask your entire window (I assume it's working fine) instead of the coat hanger, or use something else to provide enough leverage.
Electrical glitch, of course, your door lock actuators are controlled by Central Security Module (CSM), so a reset of the module might fix the problem. You need a capable scanner like Foxwell NT510 Elite w/ Ford to reset it or another relevant module like BCM. You can disconnect battery ground to reset but don't expect it to work the same way as using a capable scanner.

Regardless, you need to remove the REAR LEFT (driver side) inner door panel first, as a reference. Then you practice how to unlatch on your REAR LEFT and bend the coat hanger correctly, give it a few try. When you are ready to unlatch your REAR RIGHT, it should take 30 seconds to unlatch and open it. Save the coat hanger in your garage for future use. If you try to unlatch directly at your REAR RIGHT it can take 10+ hours to do so when you don't have the correct coat hanger with correct bend to begin with.