The truck recently was in for service at north county ford and our bill was 5500 only to drive 20 miles Ford did nothing they said they did but thats another problem for another day. I have replaced high pressure oil pump, ecu or is it eci I cant remember what he said, both alternators both batteries fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel lines, egr cooler, engine wiring harness, sensors (multiples), fuel bowl, ficm, glow plugs, glow plug module, glow plug electrical rails , crank shaft position sensors , vacuum pump (ac), fuel sending unit, inside fuse box, and ignition switch.

It's not running at the moment. it turns over but won't start. I am writing this for my husband and I apologize for the shaky camera footage.

Still wont start. Please advise

 

Here is a screen shot

 

ignition key in circuit malfunction and ignition switch open circuit codes are coming up.

 

Two questions,
What is the anti-theft light doing when it won't start?
Did you try your second coded key?

 

 

Your ICP sensor signal is likely to be shorted to the v-reference circuit. The PCM is seeing unacceptably high ICP sensor voltage and promptly ignores it - assuming an ICP value. This is shown by the fact that the ICP sensor volts are 4.57 which would equal 25500 kPa. No way to get that high of pressure when just cranking at 174 rpm.

It is probably a sensor OR a connector issue. When replacing the sensors - get ONLY guaranteed OEM parts. They are more expensive, but you will have better service from them.

Youi need to solve this issue so you know if you still have an actual issue w/ low pressure in the high pressure system (I suspect you do). I didn't see where the IPR was changed out. Please look carefully in your records to see if it was. Your issue could also be a stuck closed IPR, ie several issues could still exist. That said, the first thing needed is to get a good ICP voltage signal.

You can ignore the ignition key in circuit malfunction and ignition switch open circuit codes are coming up - assuming a B1352 code.

Like so many shops, you were taken advantage of IMO. I have great doubts that all of the parts that were replaced were actually bad.

Oh - and please post a picture of the top of your engine. Sometimes it helps us see things that could be an issue.

 

Hello, this is the husband mentioned in the first post, I want to start by thanking you for your quick replies, allow me to explain the situation a little better than my wife did.
I bought the truck (2003 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6.0 PowerStroke V8 Turbo Diesel), around the end of October of 2023, it had been sitting for over a year ( I suspect probably more than 1). right after that my wife and I had to move, and I didn't have the time to mess with it, so I had it towed into the service department at the local ford dealership, in which it sat for a month before they decided to take a look at it, according to them the replaced the HPOP, EGR cooler, Engine wiring Harness, starter, injectors, fuel rails, etc... (long story short), after getting the BAR involved, because they tried to charge me $14000 for the repair bill, I eventually got them down to $5500. I drove it 20 miles to my house, and the truck stalled out and died, upon inspecting everything the moron... excuse me... the "diesel technician", at the service department "repaired" , I saw that he in fact didn't do a single thing to the truck ( probably afraid to get a little dirty, or just lazy), anyway, over the course of about 2 months trying ( without success), to get it back up and running, I ended up having to tow it back so that they could ' repair ' it under ' warranty' . Yet another 2 months go by, and I am returned the truck because the so called "Diesel Technician", couldn't figure it out... (they returned it with the valve covers removed, no valve cover bolts, missing fuel lines, and all but one vacuum lines disconnected [ and he wonders why he couldn't start it]). another long story short,6 Hours later, i got it to start and was actually able to drive it for about 12 miles before it stalls and now won't start... since then, I have replaced everything ford "repaired or replaced" and have proven that not a single thing was replaced by them.......
Anyway I decided that I would do the job myself ( because if you want something done right......) so heres the deal, I have Replaced ( using brand new gaskets, seals, Orings, etc..), the HPOP, all 8 Injectors, the EGR cooler, Starter, ICP Sensor, glow plugs ( and harnesses ), FICM, GPCM, Both Alternators, Both batteries ( Optimum, yellow top, and red top), the starter ( multiple times) the horizontal fuel conditioning module/Fuel Pump, the fuel bowl (oil filter/fuel filter Housing mounted on top of the engine), fuel lines, wiring harnesses ( both the main harness and the engine harness), the ignition Switch, the integrated fuse box( under dash fuse box), I've dropped the tank and cleaned out the old diesel fuel, I've change every fluid I can think of. I've done everything I could possibly think of< I've followed advice from people on forums, I've bit the bullet and asked other technicians for advice (which very hard for me to do, I've been in the auto repair business for 10+ years), A fresh pair of eyes (or at least a sounding board), would be a much needed and welcome reprieve at this point...again thank you for the quick replies, very much appreciated.

 

I forgot to mention that at this point in time that it is building oil pressure but the icp voltage is still under desired , there is uneven cranking, after replacing the hpop and the seals and rings for the injectors, my forscan ( I'm using an elm device, as well as a j2534 passthrough device), tells me that it's still not building high pressure oil, it gets up to about 700, but still no turn over, just uneven cranking, I'm pretty sure the answer is one of those really simple things that I'm overlooking, I've been at this truck for too long ,,

 

If the ICP voltage is truly low, and you believe that the sensor, connector, and wiring is good, then you should believe the voltage. The PCM will sometimes assume a pressure value to try to help a no-start situation. That assumed ICP pressure is not real and many time it masks a real issue w/ inadequate ICP pressure.

So the data you posted showed unusually high ICP voltage (4.57 when cranking at 174 rpm). Now you say it is low. Did something get changed out and cause the voltage difference?