1992 RV Ford E350, 7.5 - Ford Forum - Enthusiast Forums for Ford Owners

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1992 RV Ford E350, 7.5

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  #1  
Old 02-03-2018, 11:01 AM
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Angry 1992 RV Ford E350, 7.5

I have a RV Ford E350, 7.5 that will not start. I have fire at the coil, but not coming off the distributor to the plugs. I replaced the coil but still same results. Also will not turn over with key. I have to jump the solenoid.
What are the 2 relays next to the battery on the left hand side for? Could this be the problem? Would appreciate any help.
Warm regards,
Ron
 
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Old 02-03-2018, 12:23 PM
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If they are both the same, one is the EEC relay and the other is the fuel pump relay.

From what you describe there could be two problems.
There may be a problem under the dist cap possibly cracked, or maybe a problem with the rotor not passing the spark to the terminals inside the cap. What I would suggest at this time is to remove the cap and watch to see if the rotor moves when the engine is cranked. If it does not move the pin that holds the gear to the dist shaft is sheared. Before going any further , let us know what you found.
 
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Old 02-03-2018, 03:19 PM
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Many thanks Hanky. Will get back with you after checking your info. Little cool here today on Hilton Head Island. S.C.
 
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Old 02-03-2018, 08:10 PM
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I should have been a little more specfic. If it did shear the pin holding the gear, the rotor might still move. What I should have suggested was to turn the engine over until you can see the timing mark on the crank pulley line up with the pointer down there. It can be a little difficult to see, but you can still see it if you know what you are looking for. You must turn the engine over in the same direction as when cranking, and line the TDC mark on the crank pulley with the pointer. At that time the rotor in the dist should be pointing to the #1 spark plug wire on the cap. The #1 plug is at the front of the engine on the passenger side. If it is not there, you need to turn the engine over one more complete turn(you can do this with the alt pulley) in the same direction to line up the TDC mark on the pulley with the pointer. One of those times it should be point to the #1 plug wire on the cap. If not in either try, the pin is sheared.
 
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Old 02-04-2018, 11:58 AM
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Default Follow up

Thanks again for all your info. Much appreciated. Lots of trouble getting this to a mechanic.
 
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Old 02-04-2018, 04:21 PM
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Default ignition module

Originally Posted by lester45 View Post
Thanks again for all your info. Much appreciated. Lots of trouble getting this to a mechanic.
One other question, does this Rv 1992 E350, 7.5 have a ignition module? I have searched all over including the fender well and cannot find. Could this be my original problem, no fire at plugs?
 
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Old 02-04-2018, 04:45 PM
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One thing at a time, the ign module should be mounted on the side of the dist.
From what you state in the 1st post, you do have spark coming out of the coil, which tells us the module is working just it isn't getting from the coil thru the dist cap and rotor to the plug wires. Is this correct?

Have you lifted the dist cap off the dist and looked inside? Is it wet with moisture? There are many little checks we would notice, but can't always get too detailed over the net. I am starting to wonder if we are getting all the correct info?
Do you at least have a voltmeter or test lite to use, it would help a great deal because there are conflicting pieces of info.
 

Last edited by hanky; 02-04-2018 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 02-05-2018, 11:46 AM
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Default Checking all today

Yes, I have a voltmeter and a test light Good with both. Will be back in touch...There is not a module on the distributor.......Thanks again
 
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Old 02-05-2018, 01:06 PM
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Ignition module was remote mounted on the E series. It’s mounted to a aluminum finned heat sink, left fender near the firewall if memory serves.
Module can be removed and tested, usually at no cost with most parts vendors if equipped. The distributor internal pick up can also be a low/no spark issue.

Try pulling the spout connector and see if it starts or any improvement if a weak spark is whitenessed or suspect.
If you have s healthy spark, it needs to verified at the right time as noted.

But if you do have a correct pulsed spark, it needs to be hot enough, nice blue/white that can jump 1/2” + gap. A weak whitish spark, no good.

With a good spark out of the coil lead, but not delivered through the distributor, always verify correct timing to take it off the plate for a no start, but make sure the lead doesn’t short against anything, doesn’t have too much resistance (generalized arcing) and rarely the rotor can sometimes spark jump/short through the rotor into the distributor shaft canceling out distributor delivery to the cap and on out.. More so if cheap components were ever used..
 

Last edited by Hayapower; 02-05-2018 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 02-05-2018, 01:48 PM
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Default No spark from coil.

Hank, nice here today for testing. I have 2 wires going to the coil and 12v on both wires. Don't know if you are suppose to have 12v on both where you crank the motor. However, that is no spark coming out of the coil whatsoever.
 
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