What you can try if it has not gone to your mechanic yet.

Of the 2 small wires that go to the coil, one comes from the ign switch and the other receives a ground signal from the ign module (Remotely mounted) and the hall effect coil in the dist. What you might try is to remove one of the primary wires from the coil and with the key on see which one has power. The other one that gets grounded is the one that fires the coil. Place the hi tension lead from the coil to the dist near a ground (3/8 in ) and momentarily ground the signal wire at the coil and it should produce a good spark. The remaining problem now is to pin down which section has the problem. It could be the module, that you can have tested at most auto supply stores or the hall pick up in the dist. If the module tests good that leaves the hall unit or faulty wring/connection. Do you want to give this a shot?

 

Hanky, I have checked all over, both fender wells, took the battery out looking for a module. There is none there nor a place or wires where it should be. Also none at the distributor. I'm concerned if this engine is supposed to have one.

 

This is why it is so difficult to diagnose over the net. Without being there to see if something is original or has been modified/changed gets more involved by the minute. Of course the next question is did you purchase this vehicle new? If not do you have any knowledge as to whether the engine has been changed?

Were you able to try the checks suggested earlier?

 

Took the day off. I got RV from a friend. He don't know if engine has been changed, but was running rough a few weeks back. He was 2nd owner. I did go by Ford and he gave me a print out and showed it did have a ignition module located in the right side front, 'DRIVER SIDE' in lower corner of engine. He indicated that this is a 1991, vin letter M instead of a 1992. Don't know if this makes a difference. To perform the test you suggested , I will have to cut one of the 2 wires going to the coil. I'm going to tear this thing apart until I find this ignition module. Don't know why none of the hands on the dash cluster move when switch is turned on. All fuses good.!!!!! As you suggested, it's hard to diagnose over the net. Thanks again.

 

I don't believe you need to cut any wires going to the coil . We try to avoid that whenever we can. If memory serves , the coil has 2 blade type connectors that the power from the switch and the signal wire just push on to make the connection.
Just to recap, pull one of the small primary wires off of the coil terminal. You can use your test lite to see which one is live with the key on . No you know which one to momentarily touch a ground jumper to (the one that has no power while the ign wire is disconnected). You should see a spark jump to ground from that hi tension wire that goes to the center tower of the dist cap. This is fun and a learning experience.
Let us know how you do with this.
You dropped another little morsel with the dash gauges .I think this problem should hold until you get the coil thing worked out and can produce a spark.
Just a reminder, that spark from the coil can be upwards of 20,000 volts so keep hands off that hi tension wire when doing the check.

 

Back again today. Forget about the dash. Just concerned why the DC gauge not moving. I'm sure all others will work if I ever get this RV started. Have not checked your procedure yet. However I finally located the ignition module under the battery box, drivers side. Had to take the battery box out and remove front grill to access it. I did take it to Advance Auto to have checked and said if was bad and to replace. Have not done so as yet. Do you know the voltages that I can check at the module connection, disconnected? Switch on or off? Hope this is my problem. Coil did not solve.

 

You should be concerned about the voltmeter gauge not moving when the key is turned on. That would indicate possibly, no power to ign switch, defective ign switch or lost ground for dash system. Since I believe you mentioned you had power to both wires at the coil that would take care of power to the switch and the switch when turned on is sending power to the coil. And yet , the voltmeter doesn't move. Are you sure it is a voltmeter or could it be an amp meter, which if it is an amp meter, you won't get any or much movement until the engine is started.

 

Thanks again. Have purchased a module which auto store advised was bad. Will put in tomorrow and get back with you.

 

Will check today. I have replaced the new module on the heat sink. Going to put on vehicle later today. Also replacing with a new coil. My question is do I need a good ground from the heat sink to the fender well, or does the ground come from the 6 pin connector at the module?

 

The module was the reason for no spark. I have plenty spark now from the coil and distributor. Had engine running on 2 occasions for 3-4 seconds but it backfired and I didn't want to continue until I was sure the timing was correct. How is the best way to check timing?