Clutch pedal has 2 inches of travel before moving pushrod
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Clutch pedal has 2 inches of travel before moving pushrod
1989 ford f250 5spd manual
As title states, im not getting full engagement of the pushrod on the clutch master cylinder because the first two inches of pedal travel, doesnt mechanically move the pushrod of the clutch master cylinder.
Im working on this right now, but my headlamp died as I realized what was going on.
what exactly needs to be adjusted or tightened?
As title states, im not getting full engagement of the pushrod on the clutch master cylinder because the first two inches of pedal travel, doesnt mechanically move the pushrod of the clutch master cylinder.
Im working on this right now, but my headlamp died as I realized what was going on.
what exactly needs to be adjusted or tightened?
Last edited by hellothere; Feb 8, 2023 at 07:44 PM.
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What we are talking about is called "Free Ply". It should be about 1 and 1/4 in to assure there is no pressure on the release bearing and the clutch is fully engaged.
There is an adjustment on the rod to obtain this and once set, usually never needs to be readjusted. Sometimes the pedal stop when returning to full up position might require correction to keep pedals even when clutch and brake pedals are in full up position.
There is an adjustment on the rod to obtain this and once set, usually never needs to be readjusted. Sometimes the pedal stop when returning to full up position might require correction to keep pedals even when clutch and brake pedals are in full up position.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 10
What we are talking about is called "Free Ply". It should be about 1 and 1/4 in to assure there is no pressure on the release bearing and the clutch is fully engaged.
There is an adjustment on the rod to obtain this and once set, usually never needs to be readjusted. Sometimes the pedal stop when returning to full up position might require correction to keep pedals even when clutch and brake pedals are in full up position.
There is an adjustment on the rod to obtain this and once set, usually never needs to be readjusted. Sometimes the pedal stop when returning to full up position might require correction to keep pedals even when clutch and brake pedals are in full up position.
its not grinding, and the clutch isnt slipping, I changed the master cylinder. Im a little confused as to what is wrong.
when its its neutral, and you let out the clutch, there is a whining coming from the transmission
Last edited by hellothere; Feb 9, 2023 at 01:53 PM.
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I just changed the clutch master cylinder, and i for the life of me, cannot get all the air out. im using a handheld vacuum pump.
I bled the hole closer to the rear, but the little hole toward the front is just pulling insane amounts of air, surely there is a leak, ive been at it for 30minutes
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Taking one thing at a time,
First; If the trans is quiet when the clutch is depressed, the gears in the trans should not be moving, when you allow the clutch pedal to come up the clutch engages and the gears in the trans start moving. Most of the time if you get noise from the trans with the clutch up,the bearings in the trans are worn and require replacement. There could be gear problems, but they are rare. Always make sure the trans has the right type lube and be at the proper level.
Second ,if you are having trouble getting the trans into gear from neutral the clutch may not be fully releasing so the gears in the trans don't stop moving.
This can be caused by air in the clutch hydraulic system , because you can compress air to a certain degree and the clutch may not be fully releasing. The master cyl should be bench bled before installation on the vehicle. If there is a provision on your vehicle to bleed the slave cyl you can purge the air out that way. If not , it will eventually rise and get up into the master and eventually leave.
First; If the trans is quiet when the clutch is depressed, the gears in the trans should not be moving, when you allow the clutch pedal to come up the clutch engages and the gears in the trans start moving. Most of the time if you get noise from the trans with the clutch up,the bearings in the trans are worn and require replacement. There could be gear problems, but they are rare. Always make sure the trans has the right type lube and be at the proper level.
Second ,if you are having trouble getting the trans into gear from neutral the clutch may not be fully releasing so the gears in the trans don't stop moving.
This can be caused by air in the clutch hydraulic system , because you can compress air to a certain degree and the clutch may not be fully releasing. The master cyl should be bench bled before installation on the vehicle. If there is a provision on your vehicle to bleed the slave cyl you can purge the air out that way. If not , it will eventually rise and get up into the master and eventually leave.
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 10
Taking one thing at a time,
First; If the trans is quiet when the clutch is depressed, the gears in the trans should not be moving, when you allow the clutch pedal to come up the clutch engages and the gears in the trans start moving. Most of the time if you get noise from the trans with the clutch up,the bearings in the trans are worn and require replacement. There could be gear problems, but they are rare. Always make sure the trans has the right type lube and be at the proper level.
Second ,if you are having trouble getting the trans into gear from neutral the clutch may not be fully releasing so the gears in the trans don't stop moving.
This can be caused by air in the clutch hydraulic system , because you can compress air to a certain degree and the clutch may not be fully releasing. The master cyl should be bench bled before installation on the vehicle. If there is a provision on your vehicle to bleed the slave cyl you can purge the air out that way. If not , it will eventually rise and get up into the master and eventually leave.
First; If the trans is quiet when the clutch is depressed, the gears in the trans should not be moving, when you allow the clutch pedal to come up the clutch engages and the gears in the trans start moving. Most of the time if you get noise from the trans with the clutch up,the bearings in the trans are worn and require replacement. There could be gear problems, but they are rare. Always make sure the trans has the right type lube and be at the proper level.
Second ,if you are having trouble getting the trans into gear from neutral the clutch may not be fully releasing so the gears in the trans don't stop moving.
This can be caused by air in the clutch hydraulic system , because you can compress air to a certain degree and the clutch may not be fully releasing. The master cyl should be bench bled before installation on the vehicle. If there is a provision on your vehicle to bleed the slave cyl you can purge the air out that way. If not , it will eventually rise and get up into the master and eventually leave.
Ill need to check the fluid levels in the trans.
before messing with the master cylinder, it would shift fine at a stop, but once moving didnt want to go into gear. It will go into gear, but it has to be pushed way harder than it should.
Ill take the master cylinder off and bleed it before putting it on.
For a bit of background info, I just bought the truck.
Last edited by hellothere; Feb 9, 2023 at 07:03 PM.
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There are synchronizers in the gear train that are to make getting into gear easy when moving. If they are not working because of worn parts shifting onto various gears can be a little difficult.
Sometimes the wrong lube can contribute to the problem.
From your descriptions the trans will need to come out be cleaned and opened up.The bearings are easy to replace. The synchros will require the trans be further disassembled to check them.. Depending on what is found will determine what needs to be replaced. Sometimes the keys in the synchros break and they are cheap and easy to replace.
.A good shop should be able to handle this project without much problem.
Sometimes the wrong lube can contribute to the problem.
From your descriptions the trans will need to come out be cleaned and opened up.The bearings are easy to replace. The synchros will require the trans be further disassembled to check them.. Depending on what is found will determine what needs to be replaced. Sometimes the keys in the synchros break and they are cheap and easy to replace.
.A good shop should be able to handle this project without much problem.
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Junior Member
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Ill start with bleeding the clutch master cylinder, topping off the gear fluid.
I was under the impression you can still double clutch without synchros functioning
if this doesnt fix it, its getting pulled. Ive never messed with a transmission before, so that will be fun
I was under the impression you can still double clutch without synchros functioning
if this doesnt fix it, its getting pulled. Ive never messed with a transmission before, so that will be fun
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,567
Make sure you clean everything before taking anything apart. Cleanliness is important !!!.
If you lay out your parts as you go. there should be no problem putting it back together,
I would get my bearings BEFORE starting the job, if you forget what you did to stop and go for parts, no fun trying to remember what you did last.
If possible never hurts to have a manual handy for reference especially if it is your first time and even a good reminder if you did it before.
There are brass syncro rings and sometimes one will crack and need to be replaced. Just go slow and take your time.
If you are careful , you may be able to reuse some of the gaskets.Make sure you take note of simple things like the positions of the shift forks when you remove the cover.There are interlocks in the shift tower cover to prevent going into 2 gears at the same time and unless a part is broken, no need to get involved there.
(springs and ball bearings,,,,,,surprise , surprise )
Depending on the mileage and use, while the trans is out might be a good move to replace the clutch pressure plate , disc and release bearing, That is what happens with a simple job, IT GROWS !!
If you lay out your parts as you go. there should be no problem putting it back together,
I would get my bearings BEFORE starting the job, if you forget what you did to stop and go for parts, no fun trying to remember what you did last.
If possible never hurts to have a manual handy for reference especially if it is your first time and even a good reminder if you did it before.
There are brass syncro rings and sometimes one will crack and need to be replaced. Just go slow and take your time.
If you are careful , you may be able to reuse some of the gaskets.Make sure you take note of simple things like the positions of the shift forks when you remove the cover.There are interlocks in the shift tower cover to prevent going into 2 gears at the same time and unless a part is broken, no need to get involved there.
(springs and ball bearings,,,,,,surprise , surprise )
Depending on the mileage and use, while the trans is out might be a good move to replace the clutch pressure plate , disc and release bearing, That is what happens with a simple job, IT GROWS !!