Hey guys. I recently got this beautiful Ford truck and i love it. I got a new Ford OBD1 code reader. I plug it in ran a self test engine off and got a pass code 111 and a 334 code. 334 says EGR closed valve voltage high. Should i replace the EGR valve and the Position Sensor attached to it?

 

Most of the time those position sensors were the problem.
If I remember correctly, the position sensor was held in place with 3 small nuts that were not always easy to loosen and remove. Rust compounded the problem and sometimes the studs on the EGR valve itself would break off while tying to remove the nuts. Might be a good idea to spray them with a rust penetrant like PB Blaster or WD-40 . If the studs do break, you could wind up replacing the entire EGR valve assy.
If you purchase the sensor and valve assy locally , might be a good move to make sure you can return the valve if you didn't need to replace it.

 

[QUOTE=hanky;102864]Most of the time those position sensors were the problem.
If I remember correctly, the position sensor was held in place with 3 small nuts that were not always easy to loosen and remove. Rust compounded the problem and sometimes the studs on the EGR valve itself would break off while tying to remove the nuts. Might be a good idea to spray them with a rust penetrant like PB Blaster or WD-40 . If the studs do break, you could wind up replacing the entire EGR valve assy.
If you purchase the sensor and valve assy locally , might be a good move to make sure you can return the valve if you didn't need to replacel

 

[QUOTE=Captanronash;102869]Ya i got the valve at carquest and the only one in the county. They said i could return it if i dont need it. Cost 100.00 too. So im hoping i dont need the valve. I picked up the position sensor for 30.00 at AutoZone. Im going to test the old sensor then clean n test the valve. And i have plenty of PB Blaster to clean a battleship. Ill see how it goes shortly.

 

Try pulling a vacuum on the EGR, if it holds, clean any built up carbon from under the Pintle/nose. If the pintle doesn't seat, sensor range may be off.
The sensor tended to fail over time from heat and moisture. More so than the valves, but aging out.
if your running the self test, install a vacuum gauge in the EGR line and verify spec vacuum is being applied to the valve when commanded.

 

i finally put a vacume pump on the egr valve and vacume held. Today I'll ohm test the sensor and if it fails the test I'll replace it.

 

update...after testing the egr valve it is in good shape. I replaced the position sensor. I disconnected the batt to clear the pcm. I think maybe i shouldn't have done that. Anyway i ran the test again with key off. No 334 code anymore but got a 512 code (Keep a live memory (KAM) test failure). I thinkthats because i disconnected the batt. So i guess its a fix. We'll see. Now on to the ABS or ABR light.
thanks for all your input guys☺

 

I forgot to tell you all this. When i removed the egr position sensor that attaches to the egr valve, there was no gasket or seal. It seems like it had totally disintegrated or something. I went ahead and replaced it anyway. Ran scan for codes again and passed.