Ford F-250 & Ford F-350 The heavier duty full sized trucks from Ford, offering bigger, more powerful engines and drivetrains for the abuse they may go through in the workplace.

F-350 Front End

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 04-09-2016, 09:54 AM
brettham's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 4
Default F-350 Front End

I am new to the forum. Where can I find a diagram with labels for front end parts for a 2000 F-350 4WD 7.3 diesel? All the google drawings I looked at can't be enlarged enough to read labels. :-(

Also, I was told my front end needs work. I have experience rebuilding engines, but don't know anything about front ends. How do I inspect and determine what parts need replacing? My old tires were worn badly, but don't recall if it was right or left tire, inside or or outside wear. Also, my steering is loose and has been since I bought it 100,000 miles ago (currently 300,000 mi). Any advice on how to get started would be much appreciated. Thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 04-09-2016, 10:36 AM
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14,647
Default

We have a sponsor on this site and his name is Kyle with Lakeland Ford. He should be able to answer any questions regarding Ford parts.
Until someone adds addl info you will need a special tool to remove and install the upper and lower ball joints. Chances are pretty good your vehicle will need a center link because they are a common wear item and will contribute to excess steering ply. You are probably aware that the best way to check steering components for ply/looseness is to have someone move the steering wheel a little in both directions with the wheels on the ground and check everything that moves for looseness.
When you get a chance to look you may find that the outer u-joints for the front drive axle might be ready for replacement. Just look for any looseness in them. Not knowing what maintenance has been done you might also be looking at front driveshaft u-joints also. With those miles you could have a lot of work waiting for you.
After any front end components are replaced an alignment is usually needed.
When you start something like this , it is sometimes better to do one side at a time so if there is any question regarding assembly you always have the other side too refer to.
 
  #3  
Old 04-10-2016, 12:27 AM
Hayapower's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,474
Default

Is very common for the lower ball joints to wear out first and contribute to excessive negative camber, steering play, front end wonder, and causing inner tire wear. If you raise the front tires, or one at a time, off the ground slightly and put a bar under the tire and 'lift' and drop usually you'll see the lower ball joints play looking from behind. Generally a good strong up/down lift'n drop by hand is all it takes as well.

If Kyle chimes in on the part numbers he can give you some direction on OE numbers, or I have the numbers in both OE and some aftermarket. Is it ESOF, or manual T case?

Any indication of gear lube leaking out of the axle housing tube/s? ( Reason for this question )

You'll need or should have access to a press to replace the ball joints on the spindle assembly if they prove to be worn.
If your going to replace the large hub seal as part of the overhaul, or a high mileage reseal (part of the ESOF question) it's a moderate press fit. They can be driven on with a special driver, but better to press them on so not to damage the seal/s, their not cheap.

Is the smaller outter axle dust seal ( between the axle shaft u joint and the face of the axle tube) 'tumbling around' the axle shaft itself? They seal the axle housing/tubes and keep debris, water, mud etc. from making its way and collecting inside the long tubes and potentially damaging the inner axle seals that hold the gear lube in the front gear set.

Track bar, sway links, and rod ends, steering box (boxes, not too often but should be checked) all can be cause or contributors.

I'd suggest using all OE parts, my preference, but have seen instances of fitment issues on aftermarket parts. Joints when torqued, causing spindle binding and such. Not always, but....

I've built a boat load of these front ends should you need any tips...
 

Last edited by Hayapower; 04-10-2016 at 12:30 AM.
  #4  
Old 04-10-2016, 07:01 AM
brettham's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 4
Default

Thank you both for the reply and good suggestions. I have not crawled under and inspected it myself yet, but I did find a generic front end drawing so I understand terms now, and found a great DIY web site that explained a lot about front ends generically. Your specific details are a help. I still am looking for a drawing for my truck.

I also found an old estimate from a mechanic that said I needed new tie rod ends, and sway bar ends. I was thinking of buying a front end kit (if they make them for my vehicle) and replacing all that, plus ball joints, maybe pitman arm, and tie rod to pitman arm. And then go get an alignment. If anyone knows where I can find parts and instructions and tools needed so I don't kill myself, please let me know. :-)

Does it make sense to replace the shocks while I am doing this, or is that something that can be done later with having to take anything apart again? I don't know that I have a problem with front shocks, but they probably have 300,000 miles on them and I am hoping to get 500K out of this truck.

Thanks again for the advice above. I will also make those inspectons and repairs as well.
 
  #5  
Old 04-10-2016, 07:14 AM
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14,647
Default

A lot of this is going to depend on the condition of the truck as a whole.
Only you know this.
There is a nice part to this and that is when you get the parts from Ford, you usually don't have any problems with the wrong parts. The other side of this is the cost will be more than aftermarket parts. If you plan to keep the vehicle for a few more years again depending on how much use it will see, I would suggest OEM parts. All these parts will cost some $$$ and whatever you can do yourself will save you a lot. Different places like Autozone and other parts supply places will rent to you just about all the special tools you might require. Doing your research as you are doing now will really pay off up the road.
 
  #6  
Old 04-10-2016, 07:44 AM
brettham's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 4
Default

Thanks. If you know where I can get a good deal on OEM parts, let me know. Thanks for the tip about tools from Autozone. I am very happy with the help I get from my local store.

I use the truck every day for my home improvement business and want to keep it running well until it rusts into pieces. :-) It has some dents, but very little rust. Some little things are starting to fall apart (transmission linkage bolt fell out from my dash last week), but nothing serious. When I get my front end fixed up, I am going to service trans, rear and 4WD. I put about 25k miles a year on it now and am serious about getting another 200K miles. When it falls apart, I am considering putting my International 7.3 Powerstroke in a boat. Gotta love that engine.
 
  #7  
Old 04-10-2016, 09:13 AM
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14,647
Default

There is a high demand for those 7.3 engines . Have you had any exhaust manifold cracking problems with it? The oil pan among other things kept us busy, but it is some engine!
 
  #8  
Old 04-10-2016, 09:22 AM
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14,647
Default

Brettham,
At the top of this site you will see a heading for "Vendor Directory". Click on that and scroll down to Lakeland Ford and.You can choose your moves from there.
 
  #9  
Old 04-10-2016, 10:11 AM
brettham's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 4
Default

Hanky, thanks for the info. No problem with exhaust manifold or oil pan yet. Thanks for the tip on how to find parts.

So I found my old Haynes manual for the truck, and it appears that 2000 F350 4WD has nnon-replaceable ball joints in the steering knuckle (no control arms)? Is that correct? Do they ever wear out? I will test per the recommendation above by raising and dropping the wheel.

So I am thinking of replacing everything that could wear in the front suspension, besides the 4WD stuff, which would just be the pitman arm (if worn), drag link, steering damper, tie rod ends, track bar (if damaged), stabilizer bar and links (if damaged), and shocks. Any comments? :-)
 
  #10  
Old 04-10-2016, 10:58 AM
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14,647
Default

The upper and lower ball joints are replaceable, you need a tool to press them out and the replacements in. There may be a time when you will need to replace the entire link if the joints are not replaceable.
The stabilizer links are different from the automotive type and the rubber inserts are the part that dries out and gets loose. I'm sure you are aware the best way to checks the shocks are with one end disconnected, unless they are leaking a lot then there is no question.
 


Quick Reply: F-350 Front End



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:53 AM.