The booster fail half of the test, meaning pressing break cranking truck no movement, holding break for 30 seconds nothing, those test .
The breaks were a little hard to push but was able to move them and stop the truck, the firewall boot was tore up also..
The break pedal wont move any,
I checked it after the valve and pulled it out to listen for the pop/suction noise

 

now the break wont move with holding and cranking, they are rock hard from the beginning of replacement of booster and valve.

 

If you remove the hose from the booster (Before the check valve), the engine should stall or just about stall, does it?
All we are trying to do is verify there is manifold vacuum available there.

If you get the desired result , then we make sure the check valve is correct and functioning.That can be verified by blowing air into the port that goes into the booster, but no air can go through blowing in the opposite direction.
If all is right up to there , we can proceed to further bleeding, if necessary. If not we need to make sure all is right, so the hydraulic system can do what it is supposed to do.

When you pulled out the check valve , did you hear any suction noise, couldn't see any answer there. One of the tests you did required you to pump the brake pedal to exhaust all the stored vacuum, then with the pedal down start the engine and the pedal should go down some. If you did not exhaust all the vacuum you would notice no change or the booster is not working for whatever reason.

 

When i unhooked/unplugged the valve the truck sounded fine, Thought it was funny that it didn't sound any different when i am almost positive that it should have stalled out or at the least had a rough idle.
I also checked the check valve and its good.
No suction noise when removing the check valve.
can't push the breaks down any to run any test beside the hold and crank, when I did that nothing changed

 

What you need to now is check that hose that comes from the engine and goes to the booster. There is a blockage somewhere and needs to be found and corrected so when the engine is running there should be full engine vacuum there.


Can you tell us where the other end of that hose is connected? Could someone have done some work and put it in the wrong place?

 

It runs from the booster to the vacuum box whatever it's called, sending pictures .
The truck has had alot of work done to my understanding but nothing to do with vacuum.
I can unhook the lines that go into that box and blow on one side and not the other is that helps?
the same line i can blow into i unhooked and tried blowing the other way same line and can't

 

It runs from the booster to the vacuum box I think is what's it's called, sending pictures .
The truck has had alot of work done to my understanding but nothing to do with vacuum

 

If you remove that hose completely , you should be able to blow through it both ways. If not replace it !

If you can blow through it both ways and cannot blow air through i when it is connected to the intake , there is a problem there at the intake manifold.


Let me know what you find,thanks.

 

So I fixed the hard break problem, I must have pushed the pushrod over instead of getting it In the middle of the master cylinder. Found that when i removed and cleaned the master cylinder it was nasty inside. I had no problem bleeding the breaks after I replaced the master cylinder in the correct position. But I have to push really hard to get breaks to work I have some vacuum but not enough I don't think. The thing is I've tried unhooking almost every vacuum line and the trucks idle or rpms never change don't know where to begin what a headache. Thanks for everything so far