14 f350 6.2l 230k miles. Been having a problem for months with the long crank. Ignored it forever but now it decides not to start. Figured out I can get it to start if I cycle the key and pump the throttle while cranking. Seems to run good after it gets through the warm up but definitely doesn’t like to start. So I start with plugs. Put new plugs in it. No luck. Clean mas, do compression test, and do vacuum test. Vacuum at 16 and compression for cylinders between 130 and 152. Think it’s the fuel pump so I pull bed and replace fuel pump. No luck. Reading forums I think evap system. So I replace evap canister and evap purge solenoid. No luck. Think maybe it’s a bad check valve in the fuel pump. So I put fuel pressure gauge on it and it reads 58psi but bleeds off slowly when I shut it off so I put check valve in the fuel line to hold pressure from bleeding off. I had a mechanic friend hook a computer up to it to check injectors and shut off injectors 1 by 1 and each one I could feel a noticeable misfire when he shut it off so I think injectors are good. Now I’m running out of ideas on what to check or what to replace. Any idea would be much appreciated.

 

What if you tried this ?
When getting ready to start the engine, turn the key on , but not to the start position, Turn it off ,then turn it on again , but not to start. Do it at least 3 times then try to start it .

If there is a fuel pressure leak down problem , this will allow the fuel pump to bring fuel pressure up before attempting to start What do you get?

We take these things one at a time and prove out a step before replacing anything.
This has to be costing you a fortune and can be very disappointing.

 

Ok I tried cycling key three times and on third cycle I tried turning it over. Long crank no start. And yes it’s very frustrating and expensive throwing money at it. I just don’t like being with out a vehicle.

 

For all the time and $$$ spent , you could be driving a rental.

What we try to do is isolate the problem when possible.
We do not know if it is fuel or ign related and that is what we should try to pin down. Please stop playing roulette , "cause lady luck never loses"

If you go to start it and it won't start, stop flooding the engine. If you remove a plug or two when it won' start right away, what do the plugs tell us? If wet, simple, ign. problem, plenty of fuel. 50% eliminated.
Now we need to see if we have spark right at the time we go to start it. The result of that check will determine where we go.

 

Yep I’m done throwing money and ready to isolate problem. Part of the reason I did fuel pump then evap was I pulled the bed to put in a gooseneck hitch. So I figured while the bed was off I’d do the fuel pump and canister. I will try turning over engine and pulling a couple spark plugs to check for adequate fuel tonight and get back to you.

 

Ok tried turning it over then pulled spark plugs 1 and 2. I wouldn’t say they looked wet but they did look like fouled and smell like gas.

 

Your vehicle has a "Fuel Pump Driver Module".
It is usually located under the back of the vehicle usually mounted on a chassis cross member.

 

If you cranked it over a few times and it did not start , the plugs should be wet.

Under the back of your truck should be a fuel pump driver module. Usually bolted to a frame cross member. They were known for corroding where mounted and resulted in starting problems with no fuel. See if you can find it take it down and if corroded where the back of it contacted the metal frame member , it will need to be replaced.
If you are sure you are getting fuel under the right pressure then we need to look elsewhere as to why the injectors may not be working.

 

Pulled the fuel pump control module but it’s an all plastic unit. Nothing looked corroded and wiring looked good but I replaced it and the truck fired up. No long crank anymore either. Thanks very much for your help! New part number through ford AU5Z-9D370-J.