2011 transit connect idles terribly an stalls immidiately when i accelerate
Your engine may never reach 20 in vacuum, but the main thing you are looking for is the reading keeps dropping trying to hold a higher RPM, ,easily seen..
Don't forget the problem with the purge valve sticking open could also result in a rich condition contributing to the converter overheating.
You know the result, converter restriction, and now you also know the causes. Converter replacement is not an easy job, you have your work cut out for you, make sure you have all the equip and place to tackle this job, OK ?
Don't forget the problem with the purge valve sticking open could also result in a rich condition contributing to the converter overheating.
You know the result, converter restriction, and now you also know the causes. Converter replacement is not an easy job, you have your work cut out for you, make sure you have all the equip and place to tackle this job, OK ?
this may be a stupid question bit i gotta make sure, the cat is the big pipe dingus right on top the back of the cylinder head where the two o2 sensor are correct? im just making sure there aren't any other parts of the exhaust that have another cat in it.
Without actually looking at your vehicle, I would have to guess. Usually it is the first can in the exhaust part stream coming from the engine BUT, Some engines have a flex component as the first part.
The only other way I could describe it would be, the component with the oxygen sensor screwed on to it.
Getting the nuts or bolts off that hold the exhaust pipe to the engine can be quite a challenge because they have been rusted, heated and rusted some more.
Sometimes a torch is required to loosen them without wringing the studs off. Now we are introducing a possible fire hazard.
If none of the exhaust system parts were ever replaced before, you could wind up replacing the entire system from the exhaust manifold on the engine to the rear of the vehicle.. It is like opening a can of worms.
Sincerely, get another opinion before tackling this project yourself.
The only other way I could describe it would be, the component with the oxygen sensor screwed on to it.
Getting the nuts or bolts off that hold the exhaust pipe to the engine can be quite a challenge because they have been rusted, heated and rusted some more.
Sometimes a torch is required to loosen them without wringing the studs off. Now we are introducing a possible fire hazard.
If none of the exhaust system parts were ever replaced before, you could wind up replacing the entire system from the exhaust manifold on the engine to the rear of the vehicle.. It is like opening a can of worms.
Sincerely, get another opinion before tackling this project yourself.
If you can, try to get a friend to operate the throttle inside the vehicle while you watch the gauge unless you can place the gauge where you can see from inside the vehicle.
If your vehicle has electronic throttle control there is no linkage to move manually in the engine compartment.
If your vehicle has electronic throttle control there is no linkage to move manually in the engine compartment.
whelp here's what i did, im thinking that cat is really sad. one of the o2 sensors is unplugged i did the test before i unplugged it with similar results only difference is the initial vacuum was higher but still surged and dropped as you see in the video


