let me know what you think of the results

 

Play it smart and let Grandpa help you cover the expense. (Hope you see.the logic here) His opinion is important here.Get the exhaust system, all of it !
As you know, the worst is the nuts holding the flange to the manifold. If you soak those nuts with PB blaster, you might get lucky. I do not know for sure if you have room to use a nut splitter on those rusted nuts.
Once that is done, the assembly of new parts will go quickly.
You might also have problems getting the oxygen sensor out of the old converter

 

thank you for all your help. and your absolutely correct his words our that of wisdom. im guessing we both agree the cat is clogged?

 

is there anything else to consider? or are we both thinking that the cat is clogged?

 

Your gauge readings told it all..

 

thank you sir

 

Something you might consider,
When replacing the entire exhaust system, try to align everything with the best spacing for heat dissipating and expansion when heated before tightening all connections.

As you know, once U clamps are tightened, it is almost impossible to loosen and relocate once tightly crimped piping.

 

Do not blindly replace a new cat without finding out the root causes and address all the problems or else your new cat may last only a few months. Vacuum test is only one of a dozen tests to be tested.
Do you really have a bad cat, bad enough that needs immediate replacement, is that confirmed?
Here is a list of simple test:
1) Borrow a better scanner and check for all possible DTCs (even you don't think is relevant). When your cat is bad there must be DTCs.
2) Use a capable scanner or obd2 adapter and retrieve STFT and LTFT on both banks, make sure your EOT is at least 210 degree, if EOT is not available get the ECT at the same degree, then get the 8 readings while idling, rev to 3000RPM and get the other set of readings, and tell us the altitude of the test or in what city, need to know the elevation from sea level.
3) When the cat is bad even if you can't tell visually you MUST hear the noise even inside your vehicle, simply turn off your radio and roll down your window and perform the test around 20-25mph, test while driving with transmission engaged (D drive) and in N (neutral), simply do a auditory inspection.

 

The cause was determined by the info in post #31. Might want to check that..

 

Post #31 still can't confirm. Exhaust back pressure should also be tested.
The result of the 3 simple tests I mentioned at post # 48 could also be helpful.

Finding the root cause before replacing with a new cat is the right approach.
For example: coolant intrusion, motor oil intrusion, dirty combustion chamber, or just a normal wear due to aging

Before replacing, run a cycle of berryman 2611 is also highly urged.