AC help
#1
AC help
Okay so I have a 2004 freestar that I am having ac issues with. I have taken it in for diagnostic and was told that I have a leak on the evaporator and the valve cores. I replaced the valves and put a vacuum on it suspecting that they just said I had and evaporator issue. It held -23 psi for 24 hours, so I decided to put in some oil and leak stop and charge the system. I have a 30lb can of refrigerant. I charged it and it blew ice. Then the next morning works like **** again. Any ideas why it would hold a vacuum and then not hold a charge? Need some advice, I can't afford to have a garage repair this. Thanks.
#2
You can hold a vacuum, but leak under pressure. That's what recently happened to my Freestar.
My post: https://www.fordforum.com/forum/ford...ng-seal-33134/
Since your system should have leak detect in it, I would start with a black light and start looking for a physical leak following all lines. If no physical leak is found, then you'll need to pressureize you system with nitrogen and listen for the HISSSSSS.
If you live in the salt belt area, and have rear A/C, it could be the rear lines like mine was.
I woul;d also not add any more oil to your system unless you replace a condensor or evaporator. Too much oil in the system will trash your compressor as it's designed to compress gas, not liquid. See it too many times.
My post: https://www.fordforum.com/forum/ford...ng-seal-33134/
Since your system should have leak detect in it, I would start with a black light and start looking for a physical leak following all lines. If no physical leak is found, then you'll need to pressureize you system with nitrogen and listen for the HISSSSSS.
If you live in the salt belt area, and have rear A/C, it could be the rear lines like mine was.
I woul;d also not add any more oil to your system unless you replace a condensor or evaporator. Too much oil in the system will trash your compressor as it's designed to compress gas, not liquid. See it too many times.
#4
The easiest way to repair the line is to order new ones. There will be a total of 4 that you will need. The 2 lower lines that screw into the "Y" block and the 2 uppers that go thru the body and connect to the expansion valve and evaporator. This is what I ended up doing with mine. See my post mentioned above. I ordered the 2 liquid and 2 low pressure lines from ROCKAUTO.COM
It's kind of a pain to het the rear assembly down, but it's doable if you're patient. I would also check the state of the liquid side in-line filter. The filter is also mentioned. So, instead of rehashing numerous posts about Freestar A/C systems, please review my other posts regarding the Freestar A/C.
As a side note, since the "BLOWN" line is in the rear, it would be exposed to a higher than normal amount of moisture (water) since it's right where the rear tire throws everything. I would also recommend that you replace the dryer/receiver (as it should be replaced anyways).
It's kind of a pain to het the rear assembly down, but it's doable if you're patient. I would also check the state of the liquid side in-line filter. The filter is also mentioned. So, instead of rehashing numerous posts about Freestar A/C systems, please review my other posts regarding the Freestar A/C.
As a side note, since the "BLOWN" line is in the rear, it would be exposed to a higher than normal amount of moisture (water) since it's right where the rear tire throws everything. I would also recommend that you replace the dryer/receiver (as it should be replaced anyways).
#5
Here are the 4 lines required for the rear unit that I ordered from ROCKAUTO. They are all OEM MOTORCRAFT parts. They also come with all of the required multi-stacked O-Rings pre-assembled on them.
YF3153
YF3523
YF3336
YF3337
It will run you about $200 for the 4 lines including shipping. I would disassemble your rear unit first to determine if you need all 4 lines. Since the lines include the (Pricy $$$) O-rings (which you never re-use), I replaced all 4 lines. Also remember to coat the O-rings with some compressor oil. This helps in sliding the connections together.
YF3153
YF3523
YF3336
YF3337
It will run you about $200 for the 4 lines including shipping. I would disassemble your rear unit first to determine if you need all 4 lines. Since the lines include the (Pricy $$$) O-rings (which you never re-use), I replaced all 4 lines. Also remember to coat the O-rings with some compressor oil. This helps in sliding the connections together.
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