I’m in desperate need of a wiring diagram. All the fuses appear to be good as in a visual check they are good. My fuse tester requires replacement. I will be picking that up tomorrow and if the rain holds, I’ll verify the fuses beyond a quick visual.

I was able to verify the pcm relay and at least one of the accessory delay relays are definitely working. It does not appear the starter relay or fuel pump relay is being energized. Brake lights are working. Back up lights are not. Rear blower is working. Front blower is not. Per the fuse box diagram, there is a 5 amp fuse under the dash that controls most of these systems… assuming it is a circuit that energized a relay.

 

All fuses have been verified under the hood ( main BUS) and under the dash (smart junction box). I was able to acquire fragments of some schematics of various circuits. And from what I have, it appears all my problems are stemming from the low voltage board inside of the smart junction box. Some things routed through the junction box appear to have power but most do not. I can’t find a good schematic for the junction box so tracing power feeds from the main BUS to the SJB is difficult. If anyone knows which wires to check from the main bus for always hot, hot on run and hot on start, I’d appreciate it. Short of that, could throw a box from the junkyard at it and hope for the best. There are no obvious signs why this SJB would be bad.

I also had the opportunity to jump the starter relay and the battery does have enough to turn the car over and the starter does in fact work making this solely an electrical routing issue.

 

From where I stand, If the battery doesn't have enough power to turn the engine over, STOP THERE ! We can't make everything work if we don't have the power to do it.

We should determine is the battery near full charge, If so , why can't the power get to where it is required?
One possible reason could be poor connections starting at the battery and where the cables connect to the vehicle. If that is not verified it is like trying to fill a bucket with water when the holes are letting the water out faster than it is going in. As you know , any unnecessary resistance prevents the full electric flow and does not allow parts that require a lot of power to work. Checking them means,,,,,,removing the connection, cleaning it then reinstalling it. LOOKING AT THEM DOES NOTHING !

 

Seems I’m back to my original issue and have managed to correct most of the other issues.

Currently i still have a no crank condition. Most everything for lights and accessories are now working, but the auto doors do not. Long story short, my assistant that helped put the dash in used coated bolts for the ground. As I probed the wires checking for continuity, I discovered the bolts were not conductive. I located the correct ground bolts being used in an alternate location and fixed the 3 ground points affected in the passenger kick panel area. This took care of most all the functions that were not working. I guess it briefly worked initially due to the scratched paint under the grounding washer.

the battery has been fully charged and checked. Full load capable. All fuses has had the continuity verified at the main BUS panel under the hood as well as in the smart junction box. The shift interlock is also now working properly. When the key is inserted, the security light turns off. Various relays can be heard when turning the key to run and to start, so for the time being I’m leaving pulling the ignition switch till last. Pretty confident it is not the PATS system either as all the wiring related to that appears to function in line with the schematic. I can jump the starter relay and the engine is cranking like a champ. So no starter or starter wiring issues there.

I know the starter relay passes through the neutral safety switch circuit, and that’s where I left off for now. I do remember seeing that the neutral safety switch circuit also runs through the low voltage board inside the smart junction box for some unknown reason. I also noticed I have no reverse lights. Can’t help but think the 2 may be related in some way.

another part of the trouble shooting was I pulled the smart junction box looking for any obvious signs of damage. On the low voltage board, there are 2 transistors and 2 chipsets that appear to have gotten hot and bubbled the plastic. Near those areas, there is a handful of solder joints that look like they popped. On that observation I was going to swap the SJB for good measure, but the local you pull it yard got rid of all the Freestar sand only recently got one base model in. The connections look the same but the part numbers don’t match. I am still trying to source one as a backup in case it really is bad.

 

doesnt the PATS system have something to do with the instrument cluster. so if you change the instrument cluster you have to do a system reset

 

Is that the cycle key x times, stomp the brake, lock, unlock, lock, unlock, key off, start? I joke, but it’s a similar procedure to programming the FOB? I found it once before to get the doors to work if it is the same.

Id like to know the PCM logic process for completing the ground for the starter relay. As of right now, there is no reason there shouldn’t be power from the switch to the SJB, thru the neutral safety circuit, to the starter relay coil side, to the PCM. But I also don’t have reverse lights, so I can’t help but think the transmission range selector module has something unusual going on. I have yet to find a schematic with that circuit. Does the free star have a separate back up switch? Where does the power source or fuse for that circuit come from?

as far as the PATS system, it appears that if the appropriate key is detected in the ignition, the module sends a signal to the PCM, which in turn eliminates the security light circuit by disrupting the ground. In the background, the pcm is also supposed to allow a starter relay ground to close as well as disable the passive deterrents of the hood switch and the door switch which have some path through the low voltage circuit board in the SJB. The part I can’t fully test is the SJB, so hopefully I ordered the right one off eBay, unless the original one I have just needs some kind of reset.

 

I stumbled across something today that if a modern ford has the battery disconnected for any length of time, the car won’t start unless all doors are shut, windows up, hood closed. I did this today and cycled the door locks for good measure, insuring I was locked in. Then I tried to start it. Cranked over. Didn’t start but not running for a year that was expected. Tried it again to get some fuel primed and it fired up! Then the I noticed the battery light and the van promptly started on fire.

after shutting down and extinguishing the fire, turns out the alternator has seized up since last year from sitting and the friction of the belt started a leaf fire under the car. Good times. Alternator is being sent out for rebuild tomorrow morning. Automated side doors and rear lift hatch are still inoperable and I haven’t tried to move it yet, but it’s progress at least!