Problem bleeding the brakes
#1
Problem bleeding the brakes
Recently I replaced the rear brake pads and rotors, and opened the bleeders while turning the pistons in (didn't make it any easier, it was a real pain). Well, I let the master cylinder level get too low and air got in. So I did a nice slow gravity bleed on each of the four wheels, which had always produced best results for me. Traditional order, RR, LR, RF, LF.
But no success. Pedal is spongy and goes almost to the floor.
This is my first car with ABS. I have read that on some cars with ABS, bleeding requires a special diagnostic device to actuate valves or something. Is that my problem?
Any way I can bleed this myself? I'd really rather not have to spend money to have someone do this.
But no success. Pedal is spongy and goes almost to the floor.
This is my first car with ABS. I have read that on some cars with ABS, bleeding requires a special diagnostic device to actuate valves or something. Is that my problem?
Any way I can bleed this myself? I'd really rather not have to spend money to have someone do this.
#2
When I have a difficult time bleeding brakes I start with the front and then bleed the brakes in the back, farthest last. I bleed them one at a time. Take a small vacuum hose loosen bleeder valve, put hose on end of bleeder, put other end in something like a jar, or plastic water bottle. put just a little brake fluid in jar. keeping an eye on your master cylinder pump brakes till no bubbles. Do this in correct order one at a time and you should have good brakes. Do not re-use fluid you collect. keep master full! Or you start over....Good Luck!
#3
Figured it out. Found a couple youtube videos about bench bleeding the master cylinder, installing it, and bleeding the lines to it. Bought the tool which looks like a giant syringe. Makes it very easy.
Pedal is rock hard now. Didn't even have to bleed at the wheels again.
Pedal is rock hard now. Didn't even have to bleed at the wheels again.
#5
The reason you need to open the bleeder fitting on each caliper/wheel cyl is sludge and residue accumulates and settles in them and forcing that stuff back into the system ,especially the ABS components, can cause them to stick and hang up resulting in required replacement because once in there almost impossible to clean out. Between the cost of the ABS valves and labor , it's cheaper to open the bleeders and let the crap out. Even if you can't get the bleeders open and have to replace the calipers /wheel cyls. ABS valves are not cheap !
And brake fluid does manage to absorb moisture, so if you are going to need to replace those parts , best to have newer(rebuilt) parts and clean fluid. Had to learn this the hard way !!
And brake fluid does manage to absorb moisture, so if you are going to need to replace those parts , best to have newer(rebuilt) parts and clean fluid. Had to learn this the hard way !!
Last edited by hanky; 11-01-2014 at 05:45 AM.
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