Replacing a U-Joint is not a difficult job, if you have the right tools.
You should either have a large vise ( opens up to 6 in wide) to press the caps in place, after cleaning the yoke holes of rust and junk and lubricating them before installation, OR rent the large "C" clamp tool made for the job
Installing the end caps with a hammer is butcher work and the results will show that.
If you decide to obtain the tool and the equip, will be glad to offer suggestions to do it right.
Original U-Joints don't have grease fittings , aftermarket ones do..

 

Thanks, I was wondering about using a large vise. Thanks again. Rock Auto has the joints at a good price.

 

Vise works as a press.

Once apart.

Clean all the yoke ears, snap ring grooves, light lube... Very important...

I remove two of the apposed bearing caps and place the joint body into the yokes flange ears.
Press 'one' of the caps through the flange bore allowing for the joint body to install in the cap.
Next,
Use a socket etc press the same single cap and body over half way 'through' the yoke flange. This will allow the joint body to extend 'out' of the yokes opposite side slightly making certain the next cap slides on correctly (no needle bearing pushed off).
Slide the second cap into the flange bore and onto the joint body. Again, using a socket, spacer etc now press 'both' caps/assembly to 'centered' position within the yoke.
When ever you install a u joint, and after the snap rings are installed, use a brass drift or ? and tap the u joint body center hub in "both directions" to release the press stresses/bind and making sure both caps are against the snap rings, and the joint internal clearance is maintained. The joints should turn with no resistance. If they're tight, the joint needs to be centered and stress released.
As mentioned, hammer installs are never a good idea.

 

A little tip, when installing new aftermarket U-Joints with grease fittings, make sure to place the joint in position so you can get a grease gun fitting in there and also place the fittings in the same plane so they can all be lubricated at the same time without having to move the driveshaft

 

Since I couldn't locate a U-Joint removal tool (and don't believe in the hammer installation) I made an appointment at our local auto repair shop. The guy stated that the joint was probably not re-installed correctly but after looking at the joint closer (post from Hayapower) It looks like all the little seals are leaking. I really wanted to do the job myself but not having a garage and the weather is terrible here I decided to have someone do it for me. Not the guy who put the center support bearing on.

 

Keep us updated..

 

Well, the garage couldn't find anything causing the vibration. They checked all the joints and said they were all good.
But they did say the truck would not pass this years inspection. Major rust damage on the frame. Now the question is, do I want to continue to put money in a truck that come May will not be legal to drive in Virginia?
I just bought an original computer for the truck too.

 

From driving on salted roads in the winter the underneath takes a corrosion beating.That dust get up in there and everytime it gets exposed to moisture the salt goes to work.
If the vehicle is determined to be unsafe to drive , you don't have much choice at this time.

 

I talked to 2 different places about fixing my rusted frame but neither would take the job. One is a large garage that does a lot of metal fabs for big trucks and the mechanic said he knew no one who might tackle the job. But one of the old timers in my area who used to rebuild engines wanted the truck, even after I Pointed out the issues. I sold it today. I already miss my truck.