U Joint is coming apart in 2000 Ford Ranger 2wd 2.5L. Took driveshaft down. Cannot remove pins that lock U Joint to it's housing. Truck is from north. Salt and rust seem to have welded pins in place. Any suggestions?

 

I could be wrong on this, but are you sure they are really pins? What looks like pins are a type of plastic that is used to hold the caps in place. If you are talking about what I think you mean, if there was a pin thru the cap the joint cross would not be able to move. If you have a large enough vise you can pop the caps out without too much trouble with a large enough socket on the receiving end and a smaller socket on the pressing end.. Beating on them is not the best way to remove them. I hope this is what you were talking about.

 

Thanks for responding Hanky. Poor choice of words on my part. Not "Pin" but "Universal Joint Snap Rings". They appear to have almost welded via salt and corrosion to the groves they fit in. Cannot get either side off therefore cannot replace the failed U Joint.

 

A good penetrating oil allowed to soak should help to get them loose. Persistence pays here and you don't have to worry about breaking anything because all the stuff comes with the new joint.

 

Thanks Hanky. With your help and penetrating oil made it past part one - the disassembly process. Now in part two, installing the new joints.


The first time I tried one of the pins in the cap fell over. Rotation of the joint became tense. Removed U joint, realigned pins - very carefully - attempted installation again. I think the pins are alright but after placing the cap and snap ring on one side cannot get the other side to go far enough down to allow for snap ring insertion on that side. Furthermore the more pressure I apply with C clamp the less maneuverable the U joint. There is also a space showing between the red rubber seal and the center of the joint revealing the metal. Doesn't look right. I am I right to assume that despite my care those pins must have fallen again?

 

What I do is,,

Remove the joint caps,

Install the u joints body into the shaft or yoke opening.

1.Press one cap 'well into' the shaft/yoke so that it protrudes 'deep' into the cap bore.
2.Slide the u joint body into the now inserted cap. The opposite end of u joints body should now be extended 'out' of the yoke/shaft.
3.Carefully slide the second cap onto the u joint body and 'start it' into the yoke/shaft bore. It may require you to slide the joint body 'slightly' to 'center' it in both caps. (Doing this helps to prevent the cap needle bearings from dropping out/down during press or if using a driver).
4. Install 'one' snap ring and press the complete assembly on over and against the installed snap ring. Install snap ring two. Generally the joint rotation will be stiff. Take a brass punch or soft metal drift and drive the joints body in 'both' directions at the joints center (careful of the cap seals) to center the joint and relieve the 'bind'. If the joints aren't centered after install and remain tight, the joint could fail early..

 

Thanks Hayapower. That worked. I was using a metal pipe to leverage my vice to insert the caps when the vice handle dropped - as gravity dictates it always will when handle of the vice is perpendicular to the earth. And, of course, nothing bad can happen when you are pulling the pipe towards your head. I have now alienated my woman, my face and my jaw. Anyway, I was reinstalling the driveshaft which I started by inserting the rod into the transmission. It went in without a hitch. But now it does not move. I can't rotate it or pull it back out. I don't want to use force unless that's appropriate. The truck is still in neutral and the parking brake is still off as it was when I pulled it out. It makes the back end of the shaft about 2 inches away from the mounting surface. So I know it has to come back out but I want to be careful not to damage the transmission. Do you know how I can correct this?

 

The open end of the driveshaft (forward end) is usually called the yoke and it usually slides on to the tailshaft (output shaft) of the trans in mesh with the splines. It usually can go only so far forward. Sometimes in the process of installing the yoke on the tailshaft the lubrication will permit the pressure between the splines to exit , but when you try to pull it back a vacuum is created and makes it feel like it can't return. If that is the case with your driveshaft , constant pulling tension not a lot, will usually allow air to get back into the splines so the yoke can be slid back. Happens often not a problem if you expect it. I hope I answered your question, if not let us know.

 

I took a screwdriver and hammer positioning the screwdriver inside the circular driveshaft piece that has the shaft that goes into the transmission case. A couple of strikes and it moved back. The rest was easy. I am now up and running. Thanks Hanky and Hayapower !!!!!!!!!