I have a 2002 Taurus with 3.0 doh cam. A little over 100000 miles.
It quit running on the way to work and would not re-start. I had it towed home. I did not hear the fuel pump starting when the key was turned on and checked for fuel at the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and had none. I replaced the fuel pump and now have fuel squirting out at the valve with the key on. The car will still not start. I have "no codes present" on the engine analyzer. That may be due to having the battery disconnected while changing the fuel pump. Before the car died I did have a couple of O2 sensor codes and one indicating intermittent IAC bad signals but neither of those would lead to "NO START" to my knowledge. Maybe rough running or bad fuel economy but shouldn't cause no start. At this point I'm not sure where to start. Any suggestions????
( I did check the fuel switch in the trunk and it is depressed)
I did read somewhere that the antitheft system may be a culprit but I don't know how to test that.

thank you for any help that anyone can provide.
PS: I really need to be able to fix this myself, at home because my financial situation cannot support another tow (to a shop) nor the cost of labor. It will be all I can do to scrape up the money for parts.

thanks again

 

If you haven't found /fixed the problem yet, let us know and maybe can make a useful suggestion or two.

Can you tell us what the anti-theft lite does or is doing?

 

PATS light is on and not blinking while cranking.
After going through multiple forums and comparing notes I concluded that it must be the crank shaft position sensor. So, after fighting with that project I now have a new sensor. The car will still not start.
Please help with any suggestions.

THANK YOU

Bill

 

Hi Bill,
If the anti-theft lite stays on steady for 60 seconds , there is definitely a problem with the PATS.
Some of the most common problems are, the key loses it's code.
Another is if there are other coded keys close to the ign switch key slot it can send the wrong message to the PCM which contains the functionality for your vehicle's anti- theft system.
If you have the second key available , which you should have, try that key.
Last but not least , remove both battery cables from the battery and touch the terminals together for 10 seconds then reconnect them and see what you get. Let us know how you make out with this. Thanks.

 

The anti-theft light comes on and stays on for 2-3 seconds then goes off while cranking.
I have fuel at the Schrader valve on the rail that squirts hard and steady when the valve plunger is depressed. I am at my wits end here. I do not seem to have spark at the plugs but don't know how to go from here.

I cannot afford a shop and really don't know how to find the problem.
I'm an "old school" mechanic. Give me a 66 Chevy with a 357 and and a Holly carb on top of an Edelbrock manifold with a real distributor and I can work on it blindfolded but these 'newer' cars are a bit more complicated. Any procedures to test for what to try next will be greatly appreciated.
thank you Bill

 

you lost the code on the key(s) or there are too many keys that have a code too close to one another. try doing what Hanky said and go from there

 

If you are sure you don't have spark available to the plugs. Need to know, coil on plug ignition? Yes-no
If yes do you own a test lite? yes -no
Did you check ALL the fuses , can be done quickly with a test lite.

 

Well.... I only have one key to the car, that's all that came with it when I got it. I always ONLY have the ignition key in the switch. I never have any other keys hanging with it. I tried the trick with the battery cables and it did not help.
Any suggestions??????

thank YOU
Bill

 

Bill, what about post #7 ?
Also with a test lite we can confirm if power is available to the coils.

 

it has coil paks. When you say test light do you mean continuity tester?
If not please be more specific.