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1995 4.6l thunderbird wont start..

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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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Default 1995 4.6l thunderbird wont start..

My car wont start. Before it did this it was real hard to crank and when it did start it would start no problem but if you let it sit for 3 or more hours it was hard to start again. Went home parked it, next day no starty.. It would just crank no attempt to start. Replaced plugs, I got spark,and fuel preasure is good, but injectors hav 1 volt. I replaced pcm nothing, checked crank sensor good, replced cam sensor still didnt start. Dont ask me if i hooked a domputer to it cause my harness is shot. last thing before all this happened my heater core leaked all over my pass side floor, thats why I replaced pcm thinking moisture made it short. Please help im pulling out my hair and spending money I dont have. 1995 thunderbird 4.6l LX
 
Old Apr 17, 2011 | 06:43 PM
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The injectors are powered by battery voltage from the EEC power relay. You might want to check that relay.
 
Old Apr 17, 2011 | 07:51 PM
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thank you so much man. Where is it located? Before i go through the trouble of google.
 
Old Apr 18, 2011 | 05:47 PM
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The EEC Power relay is located in an Integrated Relay Control Module. This module has relays in it that control a few functions. Unfortunately the whole module has to be replaced if any one relay becomes inoperative. Some IRCM s were located under the front radiator support. I believe the T Bird has the module located in the driver's side of the engine compartment. It has 24 pins in the harness connector. Its about 3 inches X 4 inches and is black in color. Also is about one inch thick. I wish I could be more help as to its exact location on a T Bird. You're going to need one , so if you get it then you will know what you are looking for.
 

Last edited by hanky; Apr 18, 2011 at 05:50 PM.
Old Apr 18, 2011 | 06:22 PM
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Thanks man I really appreciate it ill go take a look around, before all this happened my driverside radiator tank cracked and leaked every where maybe shorted it out.
 
Old Apr 19, 2011 | 09:57 AM
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Well turns out the Integrated Relay Control Module (EEC) is not my problem. It is a little black box directly behind my passenger side head light i replaced it did not fix it.
 
Old Apr 20, 2011 | 03:59 PM
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If the IRCM has the EEC power relay in it and that relay feeds the injectors the 12 volts necessary to operate and you don't have the 12 volts there, you need to determine if you have 12 volts going into the IRCM. The battery voltage goes in thru pin # 8 and when the key is turned on goes thru the EEC power relay and out thru pin #24 (vpwr) You already have found insufficient voltage to the injectors now all you need to do is find where the drop is taking place.
 
Old May 8, 2011 | 07:18 PM
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Well I fired my mechanic his dumb *** multimeter was broke, it had 11.57 volts at the injectors and at the battery, (I traced the wire). So just for ****s and giggles I pulled out the injector, and it didnt open up. The key was on. I dont know what the ground is supposed to be at. Any clue? Or any other ideas?

Thanks
 
Old May 8, 2011 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by thund3rchick3n
Well I fired my mechanic his dumb *** multimeter was broke, it had 11.57 volts at the injectors and at the battery, (I traced the wire). So just for ****s and giggles I pulled out the injector, and it didnt open up. The key was on. I dont know what the ground is supposed to be at. Any clue? Or any other ideas?

Thanks
The injectors must have at least 12 volts present to operate.
The ECA provides the ground to the injectors.
The ECA has to get an RPM signal from the dist or the ign module in order to provide the ground. Did you check all the fuses?
 
Old May 8, 2011 | 10:19 PM
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Yeah I checked all the fuses in the fuse/relay box under hood and the fuse box under dash. Any more I should look for, and my battery dont hold a charge for nothing, so i think thats why it was reading like 11.5. And my tach works when I try cranking. Its reading somewhere in the 200-300rpms.
 



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