1949 Ford Custom Brake Lights Not working!!
#11
I'm a little concerned at this point.
Does that vehicle have the battery positive cable running to the sheet metal or engine?
What I'm asking is; does the positive side of the battery go to an insulated terminal or does it go to the sheet metal ? Don't remember if they had a positive ground system.
Does that vehicle have the battery positive cable running to the sheet metal or engine?
What I'm asking is; does the positive side of the battery go to an insulated terminal or does it go to the sheet metal ? Don't remember if they had a positive ground system.
#15
I'm a little concerned at this point.
Does that vehicle have the battery positive cable running to the sheet metal or engine?
What I'm asking is; does the positive side of the battery go to an insulated terminal or does it go to the sheet metal ? Don't remember if they had a positive ground system.
Does that vehicle have the battery positive cable running to the sheet metal or engine?
What I'm asking is; does the positive side of the battery go to an insulated terminal or does it go to the sheet metal ? Don't remember if they had a positive ground system.
#16
One thing I do remember about the 49 was that was the first year for that new body style. When trying to back it up in a tight driveway I kept steering it into the fence. The rear fenders had a curve in them and if I used the end of the fender as a guide it kept going into the fence. That's probably why I don't remember if it had a positive ground system. This isn't helping jonnny though !
#17
Yes! Hahaha
The 49 is a positive ground 6volt system unless it has been converted over to 12
In the following week or so i will be over on the east side to put a little work in.
First I'm going to throw an inline fuse from the battery ( neg side. )
- if I have brake lights then I will open up the original loom and start the trace.
I see a Custer of these damn rubber covered wire fuses.
Honestly I'm assuming it is one of them causing the problem...
Because they are a pain in my existence I was thinking about just rewriting the whole thing. (Meaning dash and engine)
Putting a new style fuse box way up under the dash somewhere.
I will let you know what the out come is and eventually throw some pics up on here...
The hard thing to decide in this situation is to loose the AWESOME ORIGINAL look and put modern wire and fuses or just look for a stock replacement harness for the engine and dash.... ( I chalk it up to 1st world problems)
Thanks.
In the following week or so i will be over on the east side to put a little work in.
First I'm going to throw an inline fuse from the battery ( neg side. )
- if I have brake lights then I will open up the original loom and start the trace.
I see a Custer of these damn rubber covered wire fuses.
Honestly I'm assuming it is one of them causing the problem...
Because they are a pain in my existence I was thinking about just rewriting the whole thing. (Meaning dash and engine)
Putting a new style fuse box way up under the dash somewhere.
I will let you know what the out come is and eventually throw some pics up on here...
The hard thing to decide in this situation is to loose the AWESOME ORIGINAL look and put modern wire and fuses or just look for a stock replacement harness for the engine and dash.... ( I chalk it up to 1st world problems)
Thanks.
#18
I believe you are on the right track by seeing if you can get everything working first.
Then after that, depending on what you find, will help in making your final decision regarding replacing all or some of the wiring. I'm sure you will keep in mind that 6 volt systems required heavier gauge wire than our typical 12 volt systems. Looking forward to some pix when you get the time.
Then after that, depending on what you find, will help in making your final decision regarding replacing all or some of the wiring. I'm sure you will keep in mind that 6 volt systems required heavier gauge wire than our typical 12 volt systems. Looking forward to some pix when you get the time.