Another Battery Power Drain Post
#1
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I need help with my 2002 Explorer. XLT V8
My battery drains in a couple days after having been fully charged to 12.77. I went and purchased a new battery where I am getting the same results.
I did the negative amp test and am getting a 220 ma draw.
After letting the meter stay connected for 2 hours, there were no changes to the reading.
I went under the dash and pulled every fuse, one at a time while observing the readout. There were (2) fuses that dropped the amps.
1st fuse was #17 (a 15 amp fuse which handles : Delayed acc. coil : Battery saver : Interior Lamps "front & rear" : Glove Compartment lamp.
This fuse dropped the amps to 50 ma.
I then reinserted the fuse.
2nd fuse was #20 ( a 5 amp fuse which handles : PATS (??? no idea what this is) : Driver seat switch : Memory switch : Driver seat module : BSM (??? no idea what this is) : Sunload sensor.
This fuse dropped the amps to 30 ma.
I then reinserted the fuse.
I want to add, after attaching the test wires to the battery and the meter, the reading I get is an almost instant .20 - .22 amps. (or 200 ma) and this measurement doesn't change, ever. unless I open a door, then they jump to numbers in the hundreds. When I close the door, within only a couple seconds after the lights go out, around 45 secs later, they fall back to .20 amps.
Any ideas?
I want to add, all lights go out after the normal 45 second cool-down. Glove box light shuts off.
The power seats can be moved even when there is no key in. Since I never crawled onto my back under the dash, nor remember moving the seat without the key in, is this normal?
One more thing. This just happened a few weeks ago around the same time as the battery drain. My AC developed a leak. It works fine when full of freon, 35 to 40 degrees. This wouldn't have anything to do with the battery drain, would it?
My battery drains in a couple days after having been fully charged to 12.77. I went and purchased a new battery where I am getting the same results.
I did the negative amp test and am getting a 220 ma draw.
After letting the meter stay connected for 2 hours, there were no changes to the reading.
I went under the dash and pulled every fuse, one at a time while observing the readout. There were (2) fuses that dropped the amps.
1st fuse was #17 (a 15 amp fuse which handles : Delayed acc. coil : Battery saver : Interior Lamps "front & rear" : Glove Compartment lamp.
This fuse dropped the amps to 50 ma.
I then reinserted the fuse.
2nd fuse was #20 ( a 5 amp fuse which handles : PATS (??? no idea what this is) : Driver seat switch : Memory switch : Driver seat module : BSM (??? no idea what this is) : Sunload sensor.
This fuse dropped the amps to 30 ma.
I then reinserted the fuse.
I want to add, after attaching the test wires to the battery and the meter, the reading I get is an almost instant .20 - .22 amps. (or 200 ma) and this measurement doesn't change, ever. unless I open a door, then they jump to numbers in the hundreds. When I close the door, within only a couple seconds after the lights go out, around 45 secs later, they fall back to .20 amps.
Any ideas?
I want to add, all lights go out after the normal 45 second cool-down. Glove box light shuts off.
The power seats can be moved even when there is no key in. Since I never crawled onto my back under the dash, nor remember moving the seat without the key in, is this normal?
One more thing. This just happened a few weeks ago around the same time as the battery drain. My AC developed a leak. It works fine when full of freon, 35 to 40 degrees. This wouldn't have anything to do with the battery drain, would it?
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Tismark
Ford Econoline E Series
8
03-24-2011 06:02 PM