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2017 2.7 ecoboost engine and tranny swap to 2018

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Old Jul 3, 2025 | 04:46 PM
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Chase Childers's Avatar
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Default 2017 2.7 ecoboost engine and tranny swap to 2018

Hey everyone, be easy I know I should’ve got a different engine but already got it 85% put back together but my question is the pcm, ecm, computer plugs. The computer i got with used 2018 2.7 has three plugs but one for fuse box wont fit. Do I need to change the fuse box wiring as well? The engine came with engine and transmission harness.
 
Old Jul 3, 2025 | 04:51 PM
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Yes you should.
You know a fuse is just a break in the circuit. You also know the fuse box is just a centralized location and it's easier to work on. So technically you can run every single circuit using inline fuse, just a little messy.
 
Old Jul 3, 2025 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by heiko
Yes you should.
You know a fuse is just a break in the circuit. You also know the fuse box is just a centralized location and it's easier to work on. So technically you can run every single circuit using inline fuse, just a little messy.
thank you very much! Not really sure what you mean inline fuse for each wire? Will I need to change dash or any other thing? I know I gotta reroute the trans cooler lines.
 
Old Jul 3, 2025 | 06:01 PM
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Because the system network relies on several inputs ,I would think it will be a gamble.

Manufacturers change a lot of things from year to year and even mid year with the same models.

If everything stayed the same, scan tools would not require specific info to trouble shoot problems.

Also,,,when parts are replaced, the new parts need to be programmed to the vehicle or it may not even start.

I could be wrong onthis , but canyou find someone that did what you are considering
 
Old Jul 3, 2025 | 06:49 PM
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Fuse box or a missing module doesn't matter, electronically you should not care about the model year 2018, what you should care is the vehicle build date, for example 08/2017 and 01/2018 both for model year 2018 can be significantly different. Wherever you got the motor from find out the dates.
Direct replacement plus programming is the right approach, avoid or minimize retrofitting.
 

Last edited by heiko; Jul 3, 2025 at 06:52 PM.
Old Jul 4, 2025 | 10:28 AM
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This is the 2017 2.7 that was blown and pulled.
This is the 2017 2.7 that was blown and pulled.
This is the 2018 2.7 that was swapped bolted and hooked up just need wiring sorted
This is the 2018 2.7 that was swapped bolted and hooked up just need wiring sorted
 
Old Jul 4, 2025 | 05:27 PM
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I believe the info requested is what is on the door sticker of both vehicles and that may or may not be available.
 
Old Jul 4, 2025 | 11:39 PM
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On just the fuse box there are 9 different ones depending on the equipment and options.


Examples shown above from fordpartsgiant.com. There if you click on vehicle fitment you can see 2018-2019.
When you have a 2017, you will need to retrofit a 18-19 fuse box onto your truck. It's easier to get a 18-19 so you can plug the connectors in, whatever not matching, like I mentioned in my very first post, you can use inline fuse, so say F20 with a mini 5A, you pull that fuse from the fuse box, you run your own wire with inline 5A fuse and bypass the fuse box on that particular circuit.
Mechanical parts can be direct bolt on from 18-19 to 17, when fordpartsgiant already specified 18-19, you will probably need to move 10+ or 20+ circuits into inline fuse approach to complete the retrofit.
More than likely your PCM and tons of different modules are not compatible with your 2017 (can't even program it to make it work, especially when yours is a 2017, not 1997, so electrical compatibility is more important than mechanical), that means you might need to get all those off 18-19, and in the end there is only a slim chance your truck and start and run. It might be better off if you remove everything you put on, and look for parts off a 2017 or perhaps 2016.
 
Old Jul 8, 2025 | 09:17 PM
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Default Update: 17-18 motor swap

So I got the transmission mounted bolted along with motor mounts and torque bolts driveshafts saddle and radiator all buttoned back up. I ordered a 19 fuse box should be in by next week I’ll start trying to retrofit the wiring. Any diagrams or advice is appreciated thanks fellas
 
Old Jul 8, 2025 | 10:58 PM
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Don't forget there is such thing as universal fuse box. Inline fuse was just an idea so you get the picture. A fuse on a circuit is just for safety, technically not required for the current to flow, so you can even bypass the fuse box and the fuse and run a straight wire to complete the circuit. Whatever circuits not matching with your 2017, you can move that circuit to your universal fuse box to complete the circuit. You just need to organize them neatly.
Ford I don't know, in BMW say E90 the main power feed from the battery distribution block to the fuse junction box there are a few relays and terminals, from that terminal it splits into, say 15 fuses, 15 fuse slots. Terminal 30 (constant), terminal 15 (ignition switched power), terminal 30G (constant with delay shut off, the delay can be coded like 20/30/45/60 minutes), terminal 30G_F w/ bistable relay (constant with a cut off when battery is drained to a level where you can still start). If Ford has something identical to BMW, you might even need to use both 2017 and 2019 fuse boxes because those relays are soldered onto the junction box, and the universal fuse box approach doesn't quite work unless you make the splice at, say terminal 30 to your universal fuse box.

Sorry my alldata software covers up to 2007, don't have any diagram for your 2017.
 
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