Where to purchase best direct fit catalytic converters for 1985 f-250 4.9 litre?

 

You probably should be sitting down when you get the cost for this. Last time I checked it was really expensive.
I believe it consists of the converter and 2 exhaust pipes from the engine in a single unit..

 

Not too bad of an expense. I don't believe the picture is accurate but you can check it out yourself.
If yours melted down, you need to fix any issues with the engine first or you will ruin a new converter.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...converter,5808

 

I got a quote from a Lacey WA discount muffler shop. This 1985 4.9 liter straight six has two catalytic converters, with the second one being fed air. He figures $600.00 for each converter, parts and labor included. He's done good work on my Datsun 720 and 210sw in the past. So, considering what labor costs are today I'm thinking his offer {quote} is solid. I really don't want to test my Harbor Freight welding skills on expensive parts. Autozone lists a pipe with the second converter and air tube feeder for $499.00. The illustration seems to indicate a cut for a first converter if needed. What I think I'm about to do is handle the down stream hardware that is all clamping. (Autozone Brexhaust kit $147.} I found chunks of the honeycomb in the rotted tailpipe; I have the oxygen sensor bathing in P/B Blaster, contemplating removing it and performing a back pressure test. If that test comes up negative I could go cheap and just replace the shot muffler and tailpipe. I just replaced the entire brake system for less than $500.00. The quotes were a minimum of $2000.00 and much, much higher at dealers. The previous owner hotwired the ignition in stead of replacing the switch; replaced the automatic choke with a manual touchy feely to the butterfly. I have replaced the switch and all the dashboard bulbs. I have a new turn signal switch on the way, I have a Chinese replica carburetor sitting on a shelf for standby if needed. These parts, in my opinion, are relatively speaking, pocket money. It's cost of labor that turns these fine old trucks into wrecking yard parts cars. Thanks, for your feedback,

 

If you do not need to be smog checked, I would check for back pressure with a vacuum gauge. If all is well, I would leave the converter alone. If the converter is blocked, I would remove it and knock the honey comb out of it and reinstall.Those two converters would cost as much as the truck is worth. Ulimately a rich running engine probably did in the converter.