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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 04:34 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by hanky
First , I can only hope that the fusible link that opened , opened due to age.
Now,
the ign coil should have to wires coming to it . These are for the primary winding.
One of the wires comes from the ign switch, and the other comes from the ign module that gets the signal from the pick up coil in the dist that tells the coil to fire when that second wire gets grounded. What we are attempting to do is provide power to the coil terminal that would normally get power from the ign switch when the key is turned on. When the key is turned on it provides power(voltage) to various circuits one of which is the ign coil. That connection we make by providing power to the one coil terminal will also back feed power to all the other circuits the switch feeds. By connecting a wire from the battery positive terminal directly to that terminal on the coil by passes the normal ign feed and as long as the starter will crank the engine over the engine should start. You will need to disconnect the wire to shut the engine off because we by passed the ign switch.
If you choose not to do this you can always confirm that the yellow wire with the fusible link is open and jump it there. You should read battery voltage on both sides of the fusible link which we check by pulling on that wire and if it is open it will stretch easily because there is no wire connection internally.
When I said I replaced the fuse links by the starter relay, I had also replaced that ignition switch fuse link. I see that I wasn't clear on that I just tested the old piece of fusewire, and practically 0 ohms. None of my fuse links seemed bad when I replaced them. Voltage is 12.8v on both sides of the new fuse link on the yellow wire. And it goes through the drivers firewall carrying 12v, too.
 
Old Jan 7, 2017 | 05:03 PM
  #12  
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Now all you need to do is find the open in the wire from the ign switch to the coil. It could be the switch or,a connection or a broken wire , not sure if a fuse is involved in that circuit until you check.
 
Old Jan 7, 2017 | 05:27 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by hanky
Now all you need to do is find the open in the wire from the ign switch to the coil. It could be the switch or,a connection or a broken wire , not sure if a fuse is involved in that circuit until you check.
Thanks for all the help, hanky. I've talked to a lot of people through this process, and I gotta hand it to you, you know your stuff like nobody else I've talked to.

I'm gonna head down shortly and see if I can't root out the problem. Maybe this is a dumb question, but could the coil condenser be suspect or can I ignore that for now?
 
Old Jan 7, 2017 | 05:44 PM
  #14  
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I doubt it. Usually a condenser/capacitor is used to prevent /reduce voltage spikes from causing damage to the system or in this case protect ign switch contacts. Glad you figured it out and got it at least running. You did all the work and provided good info to work with, sometimes I get lucky too !!
 
Old Jan 16, 2017 | 04:37 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by hanky
I doubt it. Usually a condenser/capacitor is used to prevent /reduce voltage spikes from causing damage to the system or in this case protect ign switch contacts. Glad you figured it out and got it at least running. You did all the work and provided good info to work with, sometimes I get lucky too !!
I found the issue and fixed it. There was a fusible link on the red/light green wire coming from the ignition switch going to the ignition coil. It also supplies power to the tfi module and the eec power relay, so now the no fuel/no check engine light makes sense to me. Right now I have an in line fuse replacing the fusible link, just in case there was a reason the f.link blew. I have another question though... how do I know which fuse to use? Right now I have a 5 amp fuse, the smallest I had handy, and it hasn't blown yet, but I'm wondering if that's too high. I'd hate to go up in flames on the highway and have to race against the flames to save all of my worldly possessions.

In case anybody else comes along with my vehicle vehicle and my exact problem, the fuse link is taped up in the wiring loom, just under the back lip of the engine compartment, under the hood. In my year/make/model it was just about dead center behind the firewall from the inside edge of the drivers seat.

It's pretty hard finding info on these vans around the internet.
 

Last edited by Vanlyfe; Jan 16, 2017 at 04:46 AM. Reason: adding info for others with my problem
Old Jan 16, 2017 | 02:06 PM
  #16  
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Fusible links are rated by color. Let us know what the color is and will provide the rating so you can rest easy. Congratulations on finding the problem and correcting it.

Many auto supply stores have rolls of fusible link wire and you may be able to purchase what you need.
The rule is a fusible link should be 2 sizes smaller than the wire it is protecting. They have to be crimped and will not solder.
Brown link to protect 18 AWG wire
Green " " " 16 " "
Red " " " 14 " "
Blue " " " 12 " "
Just confirm the protection level against the color when you purchase.
 

Last edited by hanky; Jan 16, 2017 at 02:22 PM.
Old Jan 16, 2017 | 02:37 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by hanky
Fusible links are rated by color. Let us know what the color is and will provide the rating so you can rest easy. Congratulations on finding the problem and correcting it.

Many auto supply stores have rolls of fusible link wire and you may be able to purchase what you need.
The rule is a fusible link should be 2 sizes smaller than the wire it is protecting. They have to be crimped and will not solder.
Brown link to protect 18 AWG wire
Green " " " 16 " "
Red " " " 14 " "
Blue " " " 12 " "
Just confirm the protection level against the color when you purchase.
The fuselink I removed was dark bluegreen. I don't know if you'd call it blue or green. I think the age and heat changed the color. It was in line on a 12g wire, so I'm guessing 16g is a safe bet. I replace the fuse link with with a fuse holder with a 5 amp fuse. Is there any reason that's not an acceptable solution?
 
Old Jan 16, 2017 | 07:25 PM
  #18  
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The better way to determine the correct fuse would be to measure the current draw with an amp meter. Since you are using a fast blow fuse instead of a fusible link which would take longer to open, you could use a higher rated fuse. Don't forget it is supplying the coil, the computer, EEC & fuel pump relays. You would probably be OK with at least a 10 amp fuse. Not to worry because if there is any type of excessive draw it will pop the fuse immediately. (good idea to always carry some spares).
 
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