I need help please!
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 11
I need help please!
I have a 92 f150 5.0 and i recently cleaned my injectors and while doing so I pulled the distributor out not knowing that that messes with the timing anyways after I researched all that and got the timing back in line the way it should be set and got everything all put back together I have a check engine light and I can't get my truck to start I'm wanting to know if it could possibly be my computer that went out but if it's my computer I shouldn't be getting spark and I'm getting spark and fuel because when I'm trying to crank it to start it I can smell fuel and I know I have spark I tested that. So I'm wondering what it could be that's not letting me start my engine
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,566
OK, before anything, Here is hoping you and everyone have a Happy Easter even though for some of us it just won't be..
First you need to determine which terminal on the dist cap has the #1 spark plug wire going to it. Mark it.
Then remove the dist cap and move it aside so you can see the rotor.
Remove the #1 spark plug. (passenger side front)
Then, have someone crank over the engine a little at a time so you can feel the air coming out of that #1 plug hole.(Note the direction the engine rotates so you can rotate it using the nut on the alternator) When you feel the air starting to push out stop. That means the #1 piston is coming up on the compression stroke.
Using the pointer below the water pump on the timing chain cover , rotate the the engine in the same direction of rotation until you see a mark on the crankshaft pulley that shows "o" OR TDC (Top dead center) Line up the mark with the tip of the pointer . If all that was done correctly, the rotor in the dist should now point to the #1 terminal on the dist cap and the #1 piston should be at the top of its travel .
I would suspect ,the rotor is not pointing exactly to the #1 terminal. If it is not, this is what you do,
Lift up the dist enough so you can rotate the dist rotor. Now you want to lower the dist and the rotor will move some and may not be exactly at the #1 position. Lift it up again and move the rotor back enough so that when you lower the dist so it points directly to that #1 terminal on the cap. You may have a little problem getting the dist to go all the way down because the oil pump drive shaft has a hex shape that indexes with the botom of the dist shaft . I found if I went up and down a few times with the dist it moves the hex enough to allow it to go into the botom of the dist shaft. Once that is done, turn the key on, rotate the dist a little in the same direction it was turning (maybe an inch) then rotate the dist a little against the direction it was turning and you should get a spark out of the coil wire to the center of the dist cap stop there, tighten the dist retaining nut to hold the dist in that position. Install the cap and the engine should start. You will need to follow the directions for disconnecting the spout connector and proceed to set the engine timing with a timing light. The engine will run OK but will not be timed to the best recommended setting.
First you need to determine which terminal on the dist cap has the #1 spark plug wire going to it. Mark it.
Then remove the dist cap and move it aside so you can see the rotor.
Remove the #1 spark plug. (passenger side front)
Then, have someone crank over the engine a little at a time so you can feel the air coming out of that #1 plug hole.(Note the direction the engine rotates so you can rotate it using the nut on the alternator) When you feel the air starting to push out stop. That means the #1 piston is coming up on the compression stroke.
Using the pointer below the water pump on the timing chain cover , rotate the the engine in the same direction of rotation until you see a mark on the crankshaft pulley that shows "o" OR TDC (Top dead center) Line up the mark with the tip of the pointer . If all that was done correctly, the rotor in the dist should now point to the #1 terminal on the dist cap and the #1 piston should be at the top of its travel .
I would suspect ,the rotor is not pointing exactly to the #1 terminal. If it is not, this is what you do,
Lift up the dist enough so you can rotate the dist rotor. Now you want to lower the dist and the rotor will move some and may not be exactly at the #1 position. Lift it up again and move the rotor back enough so that when you lower the dist so it points directly to that #1 terminal on the cap. You may have a little problem getting the dist to go all the way down because the oil pump drive shaft has a hex shape that indexes with the botom of the dist shaft . I found if I went up and down a few times with the dist it moves the hex enough to allow it to go into the botom of the dist shaft. Once that is done, turn the key on, rotate the dist a little in the same direction it was turning (maybe an inch) then rotate the dist a little against the direction it was turning and you should get a spark out of the coil wire to the center of the dist cap stop there, tighten the dist retaining nut to hold the dist in that position. Install the cap and the engine should start. You will need to follow the directions for disconnecting the spout connector and proceed to set the engine timing with a timing light. The engine will run OK but will not be timed to the best recommended setting.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 11
OK, before anything, Here is hoping you and everyone have a Happy Easter even though for some of us it just won't be..
First you need to determine which terminal on the dist cap has the #1 spark plug wire going to it. Mark it.
Then remove the dist cap and move it aside so you can see the rotor.
Remove the #1 spark plug. (passenger side front)
Then, have someone crank over the engine a little at a time so you can feel the air coming out of that #1 plug hole.(Note the direction the engine rotates so you can rotate it using the nut on the alternator) When you feel the air starting to push out stop. That means the #1 piston is coming up on the compression stroke.
Using the pointer below the water pump on the timing chain cover , rotate the the engine in the same direction of rotation until you see a mark on the crankshaft pulley that shows "o" OR TDC (Top dead center) Line up the mark with the tip of the pointer . If all that was done correctly, the rotor in the dist should now point to the #1 terminal on the dist cap and the #1 piston should be at the top of its travel .
I would suspect ,the rotor is not pointing exactly to the #1 terminal. If it is not, this is what you do,
Lift up the dist enough so you can rotate the dist rotor. Now you want to lower the dist and the rotor will move some and may not be exactly at the #1 position. Lift it up again and move the rotor back enough so that when you lower the dist so it points directly to that #1 terminal on the cap. You may have a little problem getting the dist to go all the way down because the oil pump drive shaft has a hex shape that indexes with the botom of the dist shaft . I found if I went up and down a few times with the dist it moves the hex enough to allow it to go into the botom of the dist shaft. Once that is done, turn the key on, rotate the dist a little in the same direction it was turning (maybe an inch) then rotate the dist a little against the direction it was turning and you should get a spark out of the coil wire to the center of the dist cap stop there, tighten the dist retaining nut to hold the dist in that position. Install the cap and the engine should start. You will need to follow the directions for disconnecting the spout connector and proceed to set the engine timing with a timing light. The engine will run OK but will not be timed to the best recommended setting.
First you need to determine which terminal on the dist cap has the #1 spark plug wire going to it. Mark it.
Then remove the dist cap and move it aside so you can see the rotor.
Remove the #1 spark plug. (passenger side front)
Then, have someone crank over the engine a little at a time so you can feel the air coming out of that #1 plug hole.(Note the direction the engine rotates so you can rotate it using the nut on the alternator) When you feel the air starting to push out stop. That means the #1 piston is coming up on the compression stroke.
Using the pointer below the water pump on the timing chain cover , rotate the the engine in the same direction of rotation until you see a mark on the crankshaft pulley that shows "o" OR TDC (Top dead center) Line up the mark with the tip of the pointer . If all that was done correctly, the rotor in the dist should now point to the #1 terminal on the dist cap and the #1 piston should be at the top of its travel .
I would suspect ,the rotor is not pointing exactly to the #1 terminal. If it is not, this is what you do,
Lift up the dist enough so you can rotate the dist rotor. Now you want to lower the dist and the rotor will move some and may not be exactly at the #1 position. Lift it up again and move the rotor back enough so that when you lower the dist so it points directly to that #1 terminal on the cap. You may have a little problem getting the dist to go all the way down because the oil pump drive shaft has a hex shape that indexes with the botom of the dist shaft . I found if I went up and down a few times with the dist it moves the hex enough to allow it to go into the botom of the dist shaft. Once that is done, turn the key on, rotate the dist a little in the same direction it was turning (maybe an inch) then rotate the dist a little against the direction it was turning and you should get a spark out of the coil wire to the center of the dist cap stop there, tighten the dist retaining nut to hold the dist in that position. Install the cap and the engine should start. You will need to follow the directions for disconnecting the spout connector and proceed to set the engine timing with a timing light. The engine will run OK but will not be timed to the best recommended setting.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,566
If you are getting spark and fuel , if timing is close , it should at least attempt to start.
What was the reason you got into the injectors? Did it run before that?
How did you determine you are getting fuel? Remove a spark plug and tell us if it appears wet or dry.
What was the reason you got into the injectors? Did it run before that?
How did you determine you are getting fuel? Remove a spark plug and tell us if it appears wet or dry.
Last edited by hanky; Apr 11, 2020 at 08:26 PM.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 11
It tries to start but doesn't start I determined Spark by taking the spark plug out of number one and grounding it and watching the spark as I crank the engine and I'm determining its getting fuel because I smell fuel under the hood when I'm cranking
also I think there's something wrong elsewhere and because I have a check engine light on when I pull the codes I'm only getting one one one which means all systems are clear everything checks out good but I'm really thinking it's the computer that is fried but if it was the computer I shouldn't be getting spark correct the officers but I'm really thinking it's the computer that is fried but if it was the computer I shouldn't be getting spark correct the officers but I'm really thinking it's the computer that is fried but if it was the computer I shouldn't be getting spark correct the officers take extra but I'm really thinking it's the computer that is fried but if it was the computer I shouldn't be getting spark correct the officers take extra precautions but I'm really thinking it's the computer that is fried but if it was the computer I shouldn't be getting spark correct the officers take extra precautions are you taking extra precautions staying back a bit and as you but I'm really thinking it's the computer that is fried but if it was the computer I shouldn't be getting spark correct?
also I think there's something wrong elsewhere and because I have a check engine light on when I pull the codes I'm only getting one one one which means all systems are clear everything checks out good but I'm really thinking it's the computer that is fried but if it was the computer I shouldn't be getting spark correct the officers but I'm really thinking it's the computer that is fried but if it was the computer I shouldn't be getting spark correct the officers but I'm really thinking it's the computer that is fried but if it was the computer I shouldn't be getting spark correct the officers take extra but I'm really thinking it's the computer that is fried but if it was the computer I shouldn't be getting spark correct the officers take extra precautions but I'm really thinking it's the computer that is fried but if it was the computer I shouldn't be getting spark correct the officers take extra precautions are you taking extra precautions staying back a bit and as you but I'm really thinking it's the computer that is fried but if it was the computer I shouldn't be getting spark correct?
Last edited by Ryan Allen Hayes; Apr 11, 2020 at 08:41 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,566
We need to know if the p[lugs are wet or dry.
If they are wet and you are getting spark , it could be flooded, but we don't assume anything until we check.
You never answered the question of why you got into the injectors. Was there some other problem ? If so , what?
Did you notice if the rolled pin that holds the gear on the dist shaft was possibly sheared? You should be able to stick a piece of coat hanger straight through the gear and shaft.
Happy Easter, will continue tomorrow.
If they are wet and you are getting spark , it could be flooded, but we don't assume anything until we check.
You never answered the question of why you got into the injectors. Was there some other problem ? If so , what?
Did you notice if the rolled pin that holds the gear on the dist shaft was possibly sheared? You should be able to stick a piece of coat hanger straight through the gear and shaft.
Happy Easter, will continue tomorrow.
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 11
We need to know if the p[lugs are wet or dry.
If they are wet and you are getting spark , it could be flooded, but we don't assume anything until we check.
You never answered the question of why you got into the injectors. Was there some other problem ? If so , what?
Did you notice if the rolled pin that holds the gear on the dist shaft was possibly sheared? You should be able to stick a piece of coat hanger straight through the gear and shaft.
Happy Easter, will continue tomorrow.
If they are wet and you are getting spark , it could be flooded, but we don't assume anything until we check.
You never answered the question of why you got into the injectors. Was there some other problem ? If so , what?
Did you notice if the rolled pin that holds the gear on the dist shaft was possibly sheared? You should be able to stick a piece of coat hanger straight through the gear and shaft.
Happy Easter, will continue tomorrow.
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 11
I decided to clean the injectors because when I a cruise at 30 miles an hour it seems to bog a little bit kind of like the feeling of your running out of gas and I did everything else I have replace the fuel filter replace the spark plugs replace the wires replaced everything except for the injectors so that's why I decided to clean them and when I pull out the spark plugs they don't seem wet but give me a few minutes or an hour or so because I'm going to run to Walmart and get a new battery then I'm going to come home and redo the process of putting it at top dead center this time I'm not going to put it at 10 degrees I'm going to put it at zero and try that and I will let you know what happens as soon as I get the outcome
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,566
IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,spark is getting to the plugs, just hold the throttle pedal to the floor and crank the engine . If it doesn't start after 30 seconds of cranking ,wait a few minutes for the starter to cool down, then try again while holding the throttle to the floor (Clear flood mode) That shoud allow the engine to start , only release the pedal to bring the RPM down to a reasonable RPM to allow the plugs to clean up some. You could always remove a few plugs and dry them off then reinstall them and attempt to star the engine . It should start with the dry plugs and eventually clear up when the remaining plugs get dried from running.
Just a reminder, It is CRITICAL that you performed the earlier distributor installation as directed and if you are sure you did that it should start and run.
Just a reminder, It is CRITICAL that you performed the earlier distributor installation as directed and if you are sure you did that it should start and run.
Last edited by hanky; Apr 14, 2020 at 08:20 PM.
