Well new update the 92 f250 with 351W and ZF5 , I did check to see if Any lines were so far no vacuum leaks . I did some vacuum lines going to the vacuum tank and Vapor canister line going to throttle body and tried the new ecm and rebuild ECM still stalls after reving up the engine so I put The ECM from the 302 back in for now and that one works good does not stall the engine out it has surged and stalled before on the orignal ECM
I have done fuel filter change on it like 3 months ago
I have done idle air control valve and new plug wires last year
I did also clean Throttle last October and the first new throttle position sensor and new gasket so far my truck has 179 635 kilometres
New fuel pumps and fuel filter and new sensor and new alternator and new ICM and my brother and I checked with the timing light and top dead center got it set to 14 degrees when we put in the new coil and distributor .
I am just wondering now if it’s wiring harness problem in my truck and what else is making the engine stall out after reving it up when it’s operating on 5.8 351w ECM .
Ran and Drove good and had not a surging or stalling probem when I got the truck at 164 000 kms as april 8 2023
I do have the vin for the truck if need it for looking up what it is

 

This morning I drove up to sky water the f250 started to act up then stalled going up the hill then would not start so I had a few minutes until it started and ran then when I drove it back home to swap trucks going back on the main road same thing happened again acting up and stalling then I had wait until it could restart again and limped back to my house so now intermittent stalling not starting until a few minutes later it will restart .

Let me know If anyone out there has any ideas and thoughts of what is going on I would appreciate it

 

This is what I would do.
There are 2 wires that go to the ign coil. One brings the power to the coil and the other gets the signal to fire the coil..
I would connect my test light to the wire at the coil that does not have constant power if you unplug it from the coil..
When the engine is running that connection should make the test light blink. I would place the test light where I could see it while driving.
If that test light stops blinking just before the engine cuts off, I now know we have
an ign system problem .If the test light kept blinking until the engine stopped completely, I have a fuel system problem. I don't know of any other way to isolate the areas and until we do know ,we will keep shooting in the dark.Constant changing parts just opens the door for additional problems.
Wanna try it ?

 

I’m going to try that my fuel pumps are still working, which is good but I’m gonna actually test the 2 wires anyway see what it does. I’m thinking it’s very likely. I got an electrical issue because it was driving pretty good this week until today. It started doing that stalling so I’m gonna test that to see if it’s any different. I’ll let you know if I get any results. I am beginning to start looking for a parts truck open actually go and take the horse off that different truck and throw it in my truck. See if that’s any different. I’ll let you know if I get any results or not.

 

Next I did is test 2 wires with them disconnected then 1 wire connected with the test light then another wire so far nothing once I reconnected the 2 wires to the new coil that I put in 2 weekends ago the truck started up it has good spark then I checked the fuses they were still good which is good and fuel pumps primed up like they should and I also want to mention the distributor and rotor and cap were replaced and ignition timing was set 14 degrees like 2 weekends ago , so now I do have coolant and intake sensors I got from rock auto I am going to try those this weekend to see if this does anything I did had a engine light on when I was trying to limp it home but no check engine light on now so far

 

Do you have any way to check your vehicle for any codes ?
When that check eng light came on, it placed a code in the vehicle computer.
Before 1996 it was not easy to get the codes, but if we could get them it would save a lot of time and trouble.
The codes do not tell you which part is malfunctioning,they just provide some direction of where to start checking.. They could help tell us either ign or fuel system involvement.

 

I am going to check it out and see if I get any trouble codes popping up I got code reader for obd2 and odb1 adaptor for Honda and GM and Ford and Toyota and Lexus so I’m gonna try that next see if we got anything related

 

I plug it in this is what I got

This code was before I replaced the egr valve on it and code 111

I do have the engine vin number as well if you need it

and the odd thing is 2 5.8 l ecms for the 351w and still stalling after reving the engine real hard but works fine on the ecm for the 302

 

 

Perfect that is information of what I need and I have replaced valve position sensor last year when I did the egr valve but if engine light on intermittently or position sensor is not sending signal when throttle is open while the engine is warn then I would absolutely be sure that the egr sensor or stuck egr valve is the problem another thing to add My brother Cole said that my ignition control module has probably face planted it’s self he said where he had his 89 Ford f250 he had this problem happen ICM left the chat on him causing the engine to stall I have ordered another one it is motorcraft brand this time , anyway that is awesome of you sending me troubleshooting information that I need for chasing down problems that I need to fix.