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CCV Delete on a 6.7 Powerstroke Worth It or Not?

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Old May 20, 2026 | 05:42 AM
  #1  
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Default CCV Delete on a 6.7 Powerstroke Worth It or Not?

Hey guys,

looking for some advice from fellow diesel owners. I recently picked up a 2015 F250 with the 6.7 and have been noticing some oily residue around the intake. After doing some research I found out the crankcase ventilation system could be the culprit.

A lot of people are recommending a ccv delete 6.7 powerstroke setup to reroute the crankcase gases away from the intake entirely. Has anyone here actually done this mod? I want to know if it really helps keep the intake and intercooler cleaner long term.

Any brand recommendations or install tips would be appreciated.
 
Old May 20, 2026 | 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by johifo
Hey guys,

looking for some advice from fellow diesel owners. I recently picked up a 2015 F250 with the 6.7 and have been noticing some oily residue around the intake. After doing some research I found out the crankcase ventilation system could be the culprit.

A lot of people are recommending a ccv delete 6.7 powerstroke setup to reroute the crankcase gases away from the intake entirely. Has anyone here actually done this mod? I want to know if it really helps keep the intake and intercooler cleaner long term.

Any brand recommendations or install tips would be appreciated.
thanks in advance for any help
 
Old May 20, 2026 | 01:02 PM
  #3  
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It's not that you like it then you should do it, you need to concern about emission test, if it's required in where you are located. Whether you get the delete kit or catch can kit, both are NOT street legal, at least in California. And are you doing the installation yourself and capable to revert everything back to stock when you sell your truck or do emission test. And can you DIY and remove your turbo hoses (inlet and outlet) for cleaning.
Delete kit (VTA: vent to atmosphere) or catch can kit (empty the can periodically) is your choice, if you decide to get catch can kit, check and see if there is a transparent can out there. If not, check and see if BMS transparent can is compatible with the Mishimoto kit or not.
 

Last edited by heiko; May 20, 2026 at 01:33 PM.
Old May 21, 2026 | 11:35 AM
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When they first came out with ventilating the crankcase on gas engines there was an unexpected benefit in reduced engine wear.. So,,, it is not all abut emissions and that is one good reason for the system. If it is excessive , it should be corrected . These days we try to do all we can to prolong expensive avoidable maintenance, so the choice is yours.
 

Last edited by hanky; May 21, 2026 at 11:37 AM.
Old May 21, 2026 | 12:49 PM
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heiko's Avatar
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I'd say, just DO it if you can handle the installation and removal yourself.
Ecoboost gasoline turbo with both CCV and PCV. CCV is the high side (boost side), PCV is the low side (vacuum side). Say you own a car with this specs and you take it to a track all the time, then you should install 2 catch cans (one for CCV and the other for PCV). For daily the catch can for CCV hardly collect any blow-by. Say it take 6 month to fill up to 100% of your PCV catch can, the CCV one probably get less than 10%, if not 5% or less. So most people would install just the low side catch can and forget the high side.
Powerstroke diesel turbo with CCV, no PCV is a different story and I'm sure it collects alot of blow-by. Simply remove the charge pipe check and see if it's really dirty, clean it while it's removed, install it back and wait a few month, remove it and check again then you can tell if you really need the delete or catch can or even reroute kit.

If you do heavy towing and/or looking for performance gain, the very first mod is to upgrade the FMIC (front mount intercooler). It will lower the IAT temperature significantly and EGT to some extent. For turbo cars doesn't matter diesel or gasoline, the lower IAT, the better. That's what the upgraded FMIC is for, to lower just the IAT, and won't affect the ECT, a lot of turbo cars owners are not aware of this. And ideally you want your IAT to be exactly the same as your AAT (ambient air temperature, the outside temperature). With the stock FMIC you can have 80F degree AAT and 120F degree on IAT, that's called heat soak. Say AAT 110F and IAT 160F that can put your engine in LIMP mode and you might mistakenly think there is a problem with the cooling system. I mentioned ideally you want IAT = AAT, with water or methanol injection, your IAT can be even lower than AAT, that's what people do when they take their cars to the track, it's a must mod but overkill for daily.
 

Last edited by heiko; May 21, 2026 at 02:44 PM.
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