My 88 cargo van 3.0 v6 died suddenly as I pulled out of a gas station. I ran some tests which seemed to show that there was an error in the PIP circuitry. I ran an OBD 1 self test with the check engine light flashing and it gave me code 14 which is PIP circuit. I couldn't figure out for sure if it was the Ignition control module or the pickup coil. I decided to buy a spectra distributor from Amazon. The picture showed a distributor with an ICM attached, but when I received it there was no ICM. I decided that for $70 it would be best to get the whole package instead of buying individual parts, but it was missing the ICM. I took out my old distributor removed the ICM. I proceeded to check the ICM resistances as described in my Haynes manual and it passed the tests. I attached the old ICM to the new distributor and installed it exactly as the old one was removed. The van fired right up and ran for about 20-30 seconds and then it quit. Now it won't start again. I plan to go through all the tests noted in the Haynes manual again. I am inclined to believe that since it ran for a while maybe another fault in the wiring is damaging the pickup coil. I was thinking of getting an led test light since that appears to be the only way to test if it is either the pickup or ICM which is not working correctly.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

When you turn the key on there should be power to one of the the ign coil primary terminals. When cranking the engine over to start it the other primary terminal should flicker as the PIP circuit makes and breaks the ground for the coil to fire. Is this taking place?

 

Thanks for the help Hanky.
I ran some tests today and here are the results.

Battery was bit low when I did the test. I did try to start using a good battery to no avail. I'm planning on getting a new battery in next couple of days. Asked the wife to bring me to get a new battery days ago since I have no wheels and I'm still waiting. I can't do the test you recommended until I get a new battery. Voltages read low on tests. Battery read about 12v at battery terminals and was dropping as I tested. The comparative differences in the lower 11v readings are fairly accurate even though the voltage was slowly dropping at the battery. (e.g. 11.36,11.18 and 11.5v were not due to a voltage drop from battery.)

Probing Detached ICM connector with positive lead of Multimeter. Negative to ground at distributor base. Key on/engine off except for start test #4.......

Ground #1 wire black/orange 4.5V This doesn't seem right. Short?
Coil wire #2 Green 11.36v
Run #3 Red 11.36v
start #4 zero and 11.18v with key in start and starter disabled
spout #5 11.5v
pip #6 3.96v

Again KOEO. Probing #1 terminal ground with negative lead of multimeter instead of red Reads 6.72V. It is a positive reading. There is no negative value indicating reverse polarity on the multimeter.

KOEO probing terminals with MM at coil with coil connected to harness.
Positive side using positive MM lead 10.82v
Negative side (green wire) again using positive MM lead 10.82v ???

Key Off and probing Green wire at coil with negative lead of MM 11.73v.


Ignition off. No run and no start. I get the following readings...

Negative lead of MM to all connector pins and positive to battery.
Ground Pin #1 11.89v
Coil #2 green 11.9v
Run/Power #3 11.9v
Start #4 11.9v
spout #5 11.38v
pip #6 11.11v

All terminals on Module connector seem to be grounded when ignition is off.
If I'm not mistaken there appears to be a short somewhere. Something's up with the ground terminal of the Ignition module connector reading 4.5v and 6.72v is it not?

I'm just learning here. Maybe you can point me in the right direction. If there is a short where would I start to look?

 

Replaced the ignition module with a cheap $10 one from ebay and it runs fine. I hesitated to put it on at first thinking there was possibly a short that would blow it since I thought my voltage readings seemed odd.
I had a coolant leak and even though I was keeping it topped up it would occasionally get hot and it is common knowledge that modules fail due to heat. I think this is the cause of the failure. I'm not knowledgeable in electronics but, my battery was weak and I was wondering if that could have any affect on a module or other components that could cause the module to go bad?
I have since replaced my water pump and battery. Three water pump bolts broke off in the timing cover and that became another challenge.
A tip for when you need to drill out a broken bolt and the hardened steel ez-out that breaks off when you try to remove the bolt. Buy a Bosch masonry carbide tipped drill bit. It is white in color and the label states it is also good for metal. Most masonry bits don't specify metal, but supposedly they do cut through metal. It is hard to center at first, but it drilled through hardened steel like butter!! Under $4.00 at local hardware store while I see people selling $50 carbide drills online for the same job.

 

Almost forgot. I made my own LED test light and it verified that the PIP was good and the module was bad. No need for an expensive tool. $3.00 LED from local electronics store.