IMRC stuck?
#1
IMRC stuck?
Recently had the "Check Engine" light come on in my 2001 Windstar. A troube code reader said it was the IMRC valve had stuck. I took a look and found one of the control arms had come off of the engine when the plastic bushing deteriorated. Replaced the bushing but I still don't get any movement from the IMRC module when I manually raise the throttle to over 3K RPM, and the "Check Engine" light is still on. All connections are tight, and I haven't tested for voltage to the module, but a little preliminary research on the subject leads me in conflicting directions.
Should I be able, with the engine off, to move the control arms manually? I can move the valves (butterflies) manually, nice and easily, but I cant move the control arms at all, and I don't know if I should be able to with the power off. So they don't move when coerced, and they don't move when I raise the engine RPM.
What's a good approach for troubleshooting this problem?
Thanks
Should I be able, with the engine off, to move the control arms manually? I can move the valves (butterflies) manually, nice and easily, but I cant move the control arms at all, and I don't know if I should be able to with the power off. So they don't move when coerced, and they don't move when I raise the engine RPM.
What's a good approach for troubleshooting this problem?
Thanks
#2
I don't think you can move the actuator by hand. I have tried the one that is collecting dust in my basement.
I got a replacement for it from the junk yard even though I may not have needed one. One arm was bent and I did not realize I could have straightened it out.
However if your local junk yard has an actuator for a reasonable cost I would go ahead and replace it.
I suppose a proper diagnosis would require some electrical testing, but I don't know how to go about it.
I got a replacement for it from the junk yard even though I may not have needed one. One arm was bent and I did not realize I could have straightened it out.
However if your local junk yard has an actuator for a reasonable cost I would go ahead and replace it.
I suppose a proper diagnosis would require some electrical testing, but I don't know how to go about it.
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04-12-2009 12:58 AM