new member with a few questions!
#1
11-10-2012, 05:24 AM
new member with a few questions!
hello im new here my name is eric. im from silver creek ny, its south west of buffalo ny.
well any way, my wife has a 2001 ford windstar lx that i got from my grandfather when my grandmother died a few years back. ever since we have had it we have always had problems with it. its one thing or another. and ever since we have had it the check engine light, abs and traction controll light has been on. the check engine light is on because the intake manifold needs to be replaced, stupid plactic peice!!! i have replaced all 4 abs sensors and that hasnt helped. what else could it be? the fuses are good.
and about a week ago we have had a loud vibration grinding noise coming from the front. so i took off the tires blocked the rear tires and put it in nutral to check for bad bearing or bad bushings, and i noticed that my passenger side outer tie rod end was bad so i changed that yesterday and rotated my tires thinking that that could be the problem, but all it did was dampen the noise a little.
my oil level is good, my tranny fluid level is good. it doesnt overheat. i checked the cv joints and there tight, checked the ball joints there good.
when i had it up in the air in nutral i turned the tires checking to see if it was the bearings but they didnt make any noise.
but i cant turn the tires fast enough to check though, cuz the noise starts after your going faster than like 10mph.
could it be the hub/bearing assembly?
also yes my windstar has had the front subframe replaced and had the extra support brackets installed on the lower controll arm.
im stumped. i would hate to replace the bearing on both sides and end up with that not being the problem and spending all that time and money on nothing. you know what i mean.
any help or advice would be highly appreciated!!!!
thank you in advance for any help.
well any way, my wife has a 2001 ford windstar lx that i got from my grandfather when my grandmother died a few years back. ever since we have had it we have always had problems with it. its one thing or another. and ever since we have had it the check engine light, abs and traction controll light has been on. the check engine light is on because the intake manifold needs to be replaced, stupid plactic peice!!! i have replaced all 4 abs sensors and that hasnt helped. what else could it be? the fuses are good.
and about a week ago we have had a loud vibration grinding noise coming from the front. so i took off the tires blocked the rear tires and put it in nutral to check for bad bearing or bad bushings, and i noticed that my passenger side outer tie rod end was bad so i changed that yesterday and rotated my tires thinking that that could be the problem, but all it did was dampen the noise a little.
my oil level is good, my tranny fluid level is good. it doesnt overheat. i checked the cv joints and there tight, checked the ball joints there good.
when i had it up in the air in nutral i turned the tires checking to see if it was the bearings but they didnt make any noise.
but i cant turn the tires fast enough to check though, cuz the noise starts after your going faster than like 10mph.
could it be the hub/bearing assembly?
also yes my windstar has had the front subframe replaced and had the extra support brackets installed on the lower controll arm.
im stumped. i would hate to replace the bearing on both sides and end up with that not being the problem and spending all that time and money on nothing. you know what i mean.
any help or advice would be highly appreciated!!!!
thank you in advance for any help.
#2
11-12-2012, 11:06 AM
Hi there! Great place you are living at!
I'll put my comments in blue.
You can also go to Youtube and look for videos on your problems to improve your diagnostic skills and confidence. Heck that Windstar could be your best teacher ever.
I'll put my comments in blue.
hello im new here my name is eric. im from silver creek ny, its south west of buffalo ny.
well any way, my wife has a 2001 ford windstar lx that i got from my grandfather when my grandmother died a few years back. ever since we have had it we have always had problems with it. its one thing or another. and ever since we have had it the check engine light, abs and traction controll light has been on. the check engine light is on because the intake manifold needs to be replaced, stupid plactic peice!!! i have replaced all 4 abs sensors and that hasnt helped. what else could it be? the fuses are good.
Abs Contoller. About $1000. My ABS light is almost always on. When it is on I have standard brakes. I won't fix mine because it is too darn expensive.
Plastic intake manifold? It's not too bad. What really happens is that 8 rubber grommets shrink over time and cause a vacuum leak, unstable idle and such when it's cold. It gets better once warm. The isolator bolt grommets and the intake manifold seal cost about 50 bucks, but it takes about 2 to 3 hours to put them in. If someone wants to replace the whole intake they are taking you for a ride. By the way, the lower shell of the intake is called "spacer". You need the Haynes manual for some additional hints and torque sequence. But be careful, the amount of torque in the book must be a typo. It ain't 90 ftlbs.
and about a week ago we have had a loud vibration grinding noise coming from the front. so i took off the tires blocked the rear tires and put it in nutral to check for bad bearing or bad bushings, and i noticed that my passenger side outer tie rod end was bad so i changed that yesterday and rotated my tires thinking that that could be the problem, but all it did was dampen the noise a little.
my oil level is good, my tranny fluid level is good. it doesnt overheat. i checked the cv joints and there tight, checked the ball joints there good.
when i had it up in the air in nutral i turned the tires checking to see if it was the bearings but they didnt make any noise.
but i cant turn the tires fast enough to check though, cuz the noise starts after your going faster than like 10mph.
could it be the hub/bearing assembly?
Yes, that's my first guess.
also yes my windstar has had the front subframe replaced and had the extra support brackets installed on the lower controll arm.
im stumped. i would hate to replace the bearing on both sides and end up with that not being the problem and spending all that time and money on nothing. you know what i mean.
Take it to a mechanic for diagnosis and estimate. Pay them $50 bucks or so. You still save plenty money doing it yourself and you have a pro's opinion for good measure.
any help or advice would be highly appreciated!!!!
thank you in advance for any help.
well any way, my wife has a 2001 ford windstar lx that i got from my grandfather when my grandmother died a few years back. ever since we have had it we have always had problems with it. its one thing or another. and ever since we have had it the check engine light, abs and traction controll light has been on. the check engine light is on because the intake manifold needs to be replaced, stupid plactic peice!!! i have replaced all 4 abs sensors and that hasnt helped. what else could it be? the fuses are good.
Abs Contoller. About $1000. My ABS light is almost always on. When it is on I have standard brakes. I won't fix mine because it is too darn expensive.
Plastic intake manifold? It's not too bad. What really happens is that 8 rubber grommets shrink over time and cause a vacuum leak, unstable idle and such when it's cold. It gets better once warm. The isolator bolt grommets and the intake manifold seal cost about 50 bucks, but it takes about 2 to 3 hours to put them in. If someone wants to replace the whole intake they are taking you for a ride. By the way, the lower shell of the intake is called "spacer". You need the Haynes manual for some additional hints and torque sequence. But be careful, the amount of torque in the book must be a typo. It ain't 90 ftlbs.
and about a week ago we have had a loud vibration grinding noise coming from the front. so i took off the tires blocked the rear tires and put it in nutral to check for bad bearing or bad bushings, and i noticed that my passenger side outer tie rod end was bad so i changed that yesterday and rotated my tires thinking that that could be the problem, but all it did was dampen the noise a little.
my oil level is good, my tranny fluid level is good. it doesnt overheat. i checked the cv joints and there tight, checked the ball joints there good.
when i had it up in the air in nutral i turned the tires checking to see if it was the bearings but they didnt make any noise.
but i cant turn the tires fast enough to check though, cuz the noise starts after your going faster than like 10mph.
could it be the hub/bearing assembly?
Yes, that's my first guess.
also yes my windstar has had the front subframe replaced and had the extra support brackets installed on the lower controll arm.
im stumped. i would hate to replace the bearing on both sides and end up with that not being the problem and spending all that time and money on nothing. you know what i mean.
Take it to a mechanic for diagnosis and estimate. Pay them $50 bucks or so. You still save plenty money doing it yourself and you have a pro's opinion for good measure.
any help or advice would be highly appreciated!!!!
thank you in advance for any help.
Last edited by bluewind; 11-13-2012 at 02:01 PM.
#3
11-13-2012, 12:16 PM
For your ABS/Traction Control issue, I would look at the BAKE PRESSURE SWITCH. Cheaper and easier to do. Just disconnect the connector, unscrew the old one and install the new one. Don't worry, brake fluid will not run out. It is located where my finger is pointing in the picture. It cured my ABS/Traction Control issue on my 04 Freestar. I know that there were issues with the ones leaking on the Windstars with some associated with a recall. I would also check the wiring harness connector for ABS ECM module if you had brake fluid leaking down on it.
For the wheel hub bearings, I would put the front up on jack stands so that you can put the vehicle in gear and run the speed up. This should held in isolating that issue.
Intake manifold...What BLUEWIND said. Get a gasket set and do the job yourself. It's actuall quite easy to do. If you're unsure, get somebody to help or take some pre-pictures for re-assembly.
For the wheel hub bearings, I would put the front up on jack stands so that you can put the vehicle in gear and run the speed up. This should held in isolating that issue.
Intake manifold...What BLUEWIND said. Get a gasket set and do the job yourself. It's actuall quite easy to do. If you're unsure, get somebody to help or take some pre-pictures for re-assembly.
Last edited by Use Common Sense; 11-13-2012 at 12:29 PM.
#4
12-19-2012, 01:28 AM
is there something else that that sensor might be called i have called all over trying to find that sensor but noone can figure out what im talking about when i call, they all keep saying im talking about an abs sensor. autozone, advanceauto, napa.
lol. im thinking i may have to take the sensor off and get a part number and call the dealership to get it.
where did you get it at?
lol. im thinking i may have to take the sensor off and get a part number and call the dealership to get it.
where did you get it at?
#5
12-19-2012, 01:43 AM
also with the vibrating noise, when you rounding a turn going left when the van leans to the right the noise goes away, so if i put it up on jacks and ran it up to speed i do not beleive that the noise would be present, but thanks for the idea.
im still stumped on that problem i have not been able to figure it out as of lately.
im still stumped on that problem i have not been able to figure it out as of lately.
#6
12-19-2012, 08:53 AM
is there something else that that sensor might be called i have called all over trying to find that sensor but noone can figure out what im talking about when i call, they all keep saying im talking about an abs sensor. autozone, advanceauto, napa.
lol. im thinking i may have to take the sensor off and get a part number and call the dealership to get it.
where did you get it at?
lol. im thinking i may have to take the sensor off and get a part number and call the dealership to get it.
where did you get it at?
No, take the van there and point your finger to it. Or go to RockAuto.com and search yourself.
#7
12-26-2012, 11:00 AM
Not sure of the part number for the 2001 Windstar. The part number for the 2004 Freestar is Ford part number is "7F2Z9F924A". Your local Ford Dealer should be able to provide you the number and price. Mine was only about $32-35.
#8
12-27-2012, 11:03 AM
also with the vibrating noise, when you rounding a turn going left when the van leans to the right the noise goes away, so if i put it up on jacks and ran it up to speed i do not beleive that the noise would be present, but thanks for the idea.
im still stumped on that problem i have not been able to figure it out as of lately.
im still stumped on that problem i have not been able to figure it out as of lately.
Bad sway bar links go quiet when under load.
#9
01-11-2013, 01:16 AM
ok so after looking under the hood to check for the brake sensor, its brand new. i called the dealership where i had the front subframe replaced and all the extra support brackets installed at. and they said that when they looked up my information that they had replaced the brake pressure switch, and the abs computer.
so im going to have to buy all new abs sensors. i took em all off when i rotated the tires and the faces of them where they sit closest to the hubs are all worn and chipped up and one is cracked.
when i was on the phone with them i talked to an old friend thats a mechanic there and he told me that the trannys on these vans have issues with interior bearings where the half shafts goes into the tranny itself.
he told me to do a fluid filter change and add a friction modifier. and if that doesnt help then i might need a new transmission. or a used one pulled from a j yard.
but thats only if it gets worse instead of better.
so tonight befor i came into work i did exactly that dropped the tranny pan and changed the filter added all new fluid and added a friction modifier, as well as adding a bottle of barrs leak fix. its a 1/2 qt bottle that has 2 seperate compartements, one side for a stabilizer and cleaner, the other side has a very heavy fluid that helps to expand leaky seals and has a friction modifier as well. and to tell you the truth the little bit of driving i did with it after the fluid change and adding those extra fluids, the noise has started to go away.
i also did what you asked for me to do and i checked the sway bar links and there all tight. as well as the lower ball joint. which is awesome because i dont want to put to much money into this rig, in the spring after we get our taxes back im buying my wife a new vehicle.
she wants one of the new ford escapes. with the ecobost engine. ugh. and i dont.
i love the older vehicles. vehicles that i can actually work on. all these newer vehicles you really cant do any work on. the manufacturers are making it so that ppl have to rely on there dealership mechanics. but any ways guys.
thanks a million for all your info. and if ever need any more help i wont be shy!
peace!
so im going to have to buy all new abs sensors. i took em all off when i rotated the tires and the faces of them where they sit closest to the hubs are all worn and chipped up and one is cracked.
when i was on the phone with them i talked to an old friend thats a mechanic there and he told me that the trannys on these vans have issues with interior bearings where the half shafts goes into the tranny itself.
he told me to do a fluid filter change and add a friction modifier. and if that doesnt help then i might need a new transmission. or a used one pulled from a j yard.
but thats only if it gets worse instead of better.
so tonight befor i came into work i did exactly that dropped the tranny pan and changed the filter added all new fluid and added a friction modifier, as well as adding a bottle of barrs leak fix. its a 1/2 qt bottle that has 2 seperate compartements, one side for a stabilizer and cleaner, the other side has a very heavy fluid that helps to expand leaky seals and has a friction modifier as well. and to tell you the truth the little bit of driving i did with it after the fluid change and adding those extra fluids, the noise has started to go away.
i also did what you asked for me to do and i checked the sway bar links and there all tight. as well as the lower ball joint. which is awesome because i dont want to put to much money into this rig, in the spring after we get our taxes back im buying my wife a new vehicle.
she wants one of the new ford escapes. with the ecobost engine. ugh. and i dont.
i love the older vehicles. vehicles that i can actually work on. all these newer vehicles you really cant do any work on. the manufacturers are making it so that ppl have to rely on there dealership mechanics. but any ways guys.
thanks a million for all your info. and if ever need any more help i wont be shy!
peace!
Last edited by krupaeric; 01-11-2013 at 01:21 AM.
#10
02-05-2013, 01:25 AM
about the haynes torque specs, bluewind
double check that spec on the intake torque. You said you saw what must have been a typo for 90 ft lbs of torque on the intake. I actually thought I saw the same thing and double checked it to find it said in lbs, not ft lbs. i'm pretty sure it says 90 and it worked out to like 7 ft lbs. why the heck they didn't just say 7 ft lbs is beyond me, but it seems the Haynes are notorious for this, not the first time they got me, so double check that torque spec to make sure it says ft not in before you wrench, just in case...