It is possible you installed the sensors too close to the hub, but a more likely problem would be a bad hub bearing since it is making the usual noise they make, plus it is bad enough that it is allowing the hub to contact the sensor and destroy it. The cracked one is definitely causing the lite to come on.

 

Ok so I finally got the grinding noise gone. It wax a bad hub bearing. It was not loose at all with the brakes still fully assembeled. So when I was replacing the rotors and pads I I able to get the hub to jiggle. So I ended up replacing that. I also completely tore down the top end of that engine cylinder heads and all. To replace all the gaskets. And when I was tearing apart the intake manifold I noticed that secondary air recycle ports on the lower manifold were completely clogged. So I had to get my shop vac and a dentist pick and opened the ports back up. Now it runs great. No random up and down on the idle. And it doesn't stutter or loose power. I also removed the air flow thingy from inside the upper intake manifold and it has a lot better throttle response now. My only issue now with it is that it throwing 1 code and its for rich or lean burn. It's either a bad or dirty m.a.f . Or a bad o2 sensor. Just thought I should let you guys know that. and that you can better throttle response without that useless piece inside the upper intake manifold. You do not need it!!! Lol. And thanks for your hall guys.

 

If I am correct than you refer to the Intake Manifold Runner Control when you speak of the "useless piece". It's function is to improve torque at low rpm by closing the short runners and improving the horsepower by opening the short runners when the engine is rotating above 3000 per minute.
If your code says "lean burn" you still have a vacuum leak somewhere. If it says "rich burn" you may have a leaking injector.

 

Then its function is completely different from my Durango. In the dodge world its a must if you want improved torque and throttle response. You have to remove the "keg" style intake manifold and cut out the runners inside it. Just like the runners inside the ford windstars intake. And when I did that to my durango. After I reset the pcm. I took for a quick whip down the road to test it and never before was I able to burn rubber. And I have 35" off road tires. And my Durango has the 318 ci magnum engine. Not the 360 co magnum.
And with our van. I step on the gas and it goes. I mean it goes!!!
Also the code that came up said it was running either rich OR lean. And the print out stated the causes were either a bad or dirty m.a.f . Or a bad o2 sensor. But the c.e.l wasn't illuminated. Was not. Illuminated! So I don't know if that means anything or not. But it was throwing one code without it being illuminated.
Any sugguestions on that.

 

Thanks for the info. I have not made any changes to the IMRC and you have done two different cars.
I suppose there must be some downside to it, maybe fuel consumption, maybe noise, maybe both.
There are very small grommets on the actuator arms for the IMRC.They get lost and the result is that the butterflies don't completely close, causing some rough idle, barely notable. Once fixed the shift points dropped to 1500 when feather footing the accelerator. (but that is not your driving style, it seems)

The CEL gets set when the same error is being detected 2 times or a specified number of times.

I used 1 gal of lacquer thinner (NOT PAINT THINNER) to 1/2 a tank of gas and drove for about 100 miles. That must have cleaned everything from the injectors, valves, O2 sensors and even the catalytic converter. It is running smoother than ever. (ScottyKilmer on Youtube)

 

Just trying to follow the posts and not trying to offer anything, but have a question.
I'm puzzled by the explanation of "possible bad MAF sensor" which involves all the cylinders and "possible bad o2 sensor" which involves certain cylinders.
Something doesn't add up here !

 

Good point by hanky. Eric: could you please provide the actual digital trouble code(s)?