3.8 engine wont go above 3000 rpm when manual opening of throttle from under hood. also engine bogs down and wont go above 30 mph until engine warms up then will get up to 60-70 mph as long as str8 n level and no headwind. into the wind causes trans shift to next lower gear and mph loss. plugs are white porcelain (lean fuel?). fuel press 30psi at idle, 40psi when vac tube pulled off. fuel filter removed n seems quite open, blows clear both directions. door locks cycle even when key was off. this stopped but door locks quit working for awhile then fixed themselves again. weird stuff. is the pcm failling? r their 2 computers running this vehicle? also, after warm up and drive for 5miles or so, heater gets cold and temp goes towards hot as if coolant low. then after while temp goes back to normal n heat returns. any i dee guys?

 

One idea won't do.
Is the CEL on?
When were the plugs, wires and coil pack replaced the last time?
3.8 of that vintage is famous for trouble with vacuum leaks and bad head gaskets. The vacuum operated IMRC controllers and the metal DPFE sensor should be on your checklist too.
Funky electricals are standard. Usually you need to clean contacts at the doors and such.

 

i'll check ecm n get back to u

 

i had ecm on the mind i meant ile chk cel

 

is not on but ABS light pops on while driving. is off on next start then back on.

 

It's most likely the ABS controller. It sits under the car near the driver's seat. It has a printed circuit board with a heat sink on it. The heat sink expands and puts strain on the board. Over time the board or some circuits on it crack and cause the ABS malfunction in particular when it gets warm. Mine only works in the winter, when I need it.
There is another common ABS problem. There is a brake pressure switch on the master cylinder. You see it just behind the air filter box. This switch can leak brake fluid. The fluid runs down the wire and into the harness at the ABS controller. When it attracts moisture it causes a short. And that short can cause a fire. I made it a habit to check that switch often.
There is a recall on it and they won't fix it but they will put a fusible link in it.

Your power problem: go back to post #2 and answer the questions other than the CEL.

 

finally got around to fiddling with the power loss. pulled MAF sensor connector off. took a check ride. all kinds of power now. went to 4500rpm n shifted then another shift at 60mph. just left the conn off. runs just fine compared to b4.

 

I'll go back to the original post:
3.8 engine wont go above 3000 rpm when manual opening of throttle from under hood. also engine bogs down and wont go above 30 mph until engine warms up then will get up to 60-70 mph as long as str8 n level and no headwind. into the wind causes trans shift to next lower gear and mph loss. plugs are white porcelain (lean fuel?). fuel press 30psi at idle, 40psi when vac tube pulled off. fuel filter removed n seems quite open, blows clear both directions. door locks cycle even when key was off. this stopped but door locks quit working for awhile then fixed themselves again. weird stuff. is the pcm failling? r their 2 computers running this vehicle? also, after warm up and drive for 5miles or so, heater gets cold and temp goes towards hot as if coolant low. then after while temp goes back to normal n heat returns. any i dee guys?

The PCM is handling the drive train (engine and transmission) and the BCM is handling the body electricals. I think the microswitches on the door locks are bad. Some have used WD 40 on the door latches and got it fixed. It should not affect the engine.

I think you have a bunch of issues. There must be a lean condition and possibly the ignition parts are used up. I would search for a vacuum leak, disconnected or broken hoses, corroded metal DPFE, failing IMRC controls (you have the vacuum style controlers), bad coil pack, wires and plugs. bad thermostat, failing water pump. All of that is possible. Check for bad ground connections, check the charging system because a bad alternator can do very funny things.
You run the risk of throwing parts at it. Look at youtubes on how to test the various parts. It is better to inspect, clean, test and re-use parts until you find the one that's causing the trouble. It is a process of elimination.