You might wonder why the dealer backed away from this job..

That wiper motor needs to be replaced.
Just replace it and save yourself a lot of trouble and $$$.

 

Thank You for Your reply.
I will get to starter motor on saturday. I guess the relay is somewhere there or it is built in. I am wondering, where is the relay located to begin with?
The schematics are clear.
Unfortunately, i do not have time to work on this after work. Sat-sun only .

 

Check post # 5 above and locate C125 connector (12-pin).
Locate the 4th pic below where you see a 12-pin male connector.





As you can see from the electrical diagrams I posted previously, there are 3 relays integrated into the wiper motor assembly and as you can see from the 4 pics above, there are 5 clips to disassemble the black cover, you remove it just to see what's going on, while the cover is removed you can also do some cleaning, all the tests can be done at the 12-pin connector (male) and the pigtail (female).
3 relays in total you will need to identify which one is the washer relay (if you need to replace it).
If you look at the 12-pin terminals again, 8 of them are so close to each other, so you might want to use test hook clip like this (when alligator clips are too big):


Click the image takes you to aliexpress to see the listing.
If the 3 relays are soldered to a circuit board you will need to desolder to replace of course. That's why I mentioned previously that you might need to replace the whole wiper motor, or bypass it.
To bench test the washer relay you need to remove the wiper motor and test it with a dc power supply on the bench. If the result is good then there could be wiring problem from your F7 or F110 fuse (but highly unlikely because the wipers share the same fuses and the wiper motor itself is working fine) or bad ground signal from your multifunction switch to C125-12 connection.

 

Do not remove the black cover of the wiper motor yet.
Once the 12-pin connector at C125 and 2-pin connector at C137 and 6-pin connector at C202B are removed you'll be testing just the incoming +/- signals to the pigtail wiring (not any relay/motor/switch):
1) Terminal 30:
- Ohmmeter dial to 200Ω, red to C125-7, black to C137-1 you should expect 2ohm or less
2) Terminal 85:
- Ohmmeter dial to 200Ω, red to C125-12, black to C202B-2 you should expect 2ohm or less
- Ohmmeter dial to 200Ω, red to C202B-2, black to C202B-5 you should expect 2ohm or less
3) Terminal 86:
- Check the voltage at your battery and write down what voltage you get
- Get to the fusebox where F7-10A is located, voltmeter black to battery ground post or a known good ground source, turn key to RUN position, voltmeter red to the probe point of F7 fuse without pulling the fuse. Probe point is the 2 little exposed metals on top of the fuse, and observe the voltage you get
- Voltmeter black to battery ground post or a known good ground source, turn your key to RUN position, voltmeter red to C125-8 and also observe the voltage you get, all 3 voltages should match to 2 decimals
4) Terminal 87:
- Remove your key, get to F110-30A fuse, voltmeter black to battery ground pos tor a known good ground source, voltmeter red to the probe point of F110 fuse and observe the voltage
- Voltmeter black to battery ground post or a known good ground source, voltmeter red to C125-5 and also observe the voltage you get

If all the resistances are less than 2ohm and all the voltages match, then you need to bench test the wiper motor.

to be continued .....

 

Get a DC power supply or 12v battery bank or equivalent.
Remove the wiper motor as follows:


C125 pins to probe: 5, 7, 8 and 12 (other 8 pins are unused, it looks like you might not need to use the test hook clip, but be caution at pin 12)
To energize the washer relay inside your wiper motor on the bench:
1) battery (-) to voltmeter black
2) battery (+) to C125-5
3) battery (+) to C125-8
4) voltmeter red to C125-7
When you are ready to energize the relay to read the voltage, trigger it at your battery (-) post below, you connect C125-12 side first.
5) C125-12 to battery (-)

I mentioned previously when the relay energizes terminal 30 connects to 87, period (doesn't matter it's 12V or ground circuit, doesn't matter 30 flows to 87 or the other way). So this time you want to check the resistance between 30 and 87 (that is C125-7 and C125-5)
1) ohmmeter black to C125-5
2) battery (+) to C125-8
3) ohmmeter red to C125-7
When you are ready to energize the relay to read the resistance, trigger it at your battery (-) post below, you connect C125-12 side first.
4) C125-12 to battery (-)
Let's see how many ohm you get between C125-7 and C125-5. You said there was a 2-5 minutes delay. So don't forget to wait 5 minutes and keep an eye on the resistance change, should be 2ohm or less for the entire 5 minutes duration.

You pop open the black cover only when you think you need to replace the relay or your relay still energizes with a delay on the voltage to get to 12V.

 

FIXED.

THANK You for Your support.
I had ordered wrong part and metered with cheap meter, unreliable meter to start with. This was a mistake on my behalf.

Here is how and what I did. I did order correct part motorcraft 318G pump. I did meter output voltage at the plug going into to washer pump at 11.92 VDC steady and every time. . ( this time i used reliable meter-not cheap i had used before) i did assembled back to place, and it did not work. Removed again and wiggled wiring back to place. This time it worked.
I guess there was a loose wire either at the plug or at the meet to the main wiring harness.

Its working now.

Thank You or Your support,

Cheers