Hey everyone,

I recently bought a 2005 Ford E150 (4.6L) and I’ve been dealing with a persistent P2106 code. The previous owner had already replaced the MAF sensor, throttle body, and TPS sensor, but the code keeps coming back.



The van drives, but sometimes it feels like it’s going into limp mode / reduced power and it dies while idling.



Here’s what I’ve checked so far:

• No vacuum leaks that I can hear or see.
• Throttle body is new and clean.
• Air filter is clean.
• Connections seem tight and no obvious wiring damage.

From what I’ve read, P2106 seems to be a “forced limited power” code triggered by another underlying issue, not necessarily the throttle body itself.



Before I start throwing more parts at it, I’d really appreciate some guidance:

1. What other causes should I look at besides the throttle body / TPS?
2. Could this be related to the ETB wiring harness, PCM, or maybe a related sensor like the APP (pedal position sensor)?
3. Any common failure points on these vans that trigger P2106?

Any help or direction is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

You probably need a scanner capable to retrieve Ford-specific DTCs more than just the P codes, if you plan to go thru all possible causes shown above. Handheld obd2 scanner like Foxwell NT510 Elite w/ Ford is recommended, and buy it at aliexpress, not amazon.

Next time it stalls, pull over, pop the hood and disconnect just the electrical connector of your MAF then restart and drive, you should get rough idling and a new CEL, but it shouldn't stall anymore. If that's the case it can be a bad MAF. Never rule out a bad wiring on your MAF and if that's the case, it doesn't matter if you are using your existing MAF, or a new Motorcraft MAF, or without a MAF. When it comes to MAF, Motorcraft brand is a must buy.
Go through the pinpoint QE first, if you need more diagrams and details let me know so I can attach those.

 

The amount of expense replacing good parts can well exceed a good diagnosis..

Can you get a print out or post the data stream info. Once we have that we usually can come up with the cause .

Just like a doctor looks at your blood work, a good tech can spot things that are abnormal in the data stream info.
You just need to know what you are looking at..
Unfortunately, many places can get the data stream info, but are limited by lack of info or experience.
The longer you drive your vehicle with this condition, things just seem to get worse.
Can you get it checked for that info and post it here, we should be able to help,thanks..

 

yes, I do own a Foxwell scanner, I disconnected the MAF sensor and let the car idle and it died, it seems to be whenever it reaches normal temperature is when the car decides to stall. The wrench light was on when the MAF was disconnected. It also had a abs code for the driver side wheel speed sensor and the p1000 self test code.

 

The vehicle computer does not control fuel until a certain engine temp is reached.
It sounds like the minute the computer starts controlling fuel the problem appears. This very likely could be caused by the computer receiving incorrect info and responding accordingly. If you could get the data stream info it will show what is causing the problem.

 

Yes, I’m able to do a live data of every other sensor in the car, when I get home I will do the live data record it and then post it here. Hopefully, you can see something that I’m not seeing.

 

QE12 mentions about reference values, check attached below.
You have foxwell you can reset throttle adaptation, it should be under "services".

 

You mentioned about ABS code, which DTC code exactly so I can attach the pinpoint test. You have foxwell you can get to ABS module and select live data. You can even jack and elevate the front? and you have 4WABS right? (instead of RABS), you can then spin the wheels by hand and check your live data on foxwell. And of course, remove the sensor and clean first. If you check P2106 shown above, ABS fault could be one of the possible causes.

 

so I was able to do I did not take on the wheel speed sensor. It was super dirty with a lot of metallic dust. I did not do a reading prior to cleaning the sensor, which I should have done, but after the fact, this sensor reads similar to the right-hand side. Please see the photos attached one is going to be with a tire stopped. The other photo will be reading as I rotated the tire. I also did a video of every other sensor. My scanner could read in the car, it is about three minute video. I will appreciate if you want to go through it and see if any of those values are out of range.

Also, I had the MAF sensor disconnected when I did the video and when I started the car, it ran fine once again until he reached normal temperature and IT died again. I connected the MAF sensor back, but the van did not want to start after the fact, and it started raining, so I did not try it again, later on I’ll get it to start. Try to drive it around to see if the computer wants to get rid of the P 1000 code that I have and hopefully that sets everything into place.

 

Update, the van keeps on dying after the test have been completed.