Started having trouble with the engine stalling in September 2024 and have lots of information but will keep it to a minimum to begin with.
was driving down the interstate and the engine stalled, coasted to the shoulder of the road. Engine would not turn over, but after about 15 minutes, it cranked up and drove for about 30 minutes had to repeat many times Was 600 miles from home and could not get anyone to work on it so I spent two days trying different things. On the last trial, it seemed OK but after getting back on the interstate and driving less than 100 miles it all started again. Discovered that when it would die at highway speeds,I could cut the key off and back on then many times the engine would go back to running. After getting back home, the problem seem to disappear. Took two trips, about 1000 miles, in 2025 and no issues. Now it will start up and run for two minutes to 15 minutes and then dies.
any help would be greatly appreciated

 

A couple of clarifications, please:

1. When it stalls does it cut off suddenly or sputter and die?

2. When you say on the road it wouldn't "turn over", do you mean no crank no start or crank no start?

3. Are the answers to 1 & 2 the same now as they were during the original problem trip?

 

Please note that you can have a hundred of DTCs without triggering a check engine light.
To troubleshoot on any cars newer than 2005, you will need a reader/scanner capable to retrieve ford's specific DTCs. Keep on guessing and throwing random parts at your car will cost much more than buying the reader/scanner.You seek for help here is also a good indication that you want to fix this yourself if at all possible than taking it to a shop upfront.

A good reader capable to read all Ford's DTCs: OBDLink MX+
Good scanner capable to read, reset and fix: Foxwell NT510 Elite w/ Ford+Lincoln+Mercury software
A bad scanner but with highest rating all over the web: Innova 5610

So basically you said engine stalled and you can't restart it right up when it's warm. How hot at what temperature out there when that happened?
Have you ever changed the fuel filter, if so, when was that?
Since 09/24, have you ever experienced a no crank no start on a cold start in the morning?
So it's an RV, you have dual batteries and dual alternators do you? And what kind of stuffs are you running?

 

when the engine stalls, The engine dies as if you cut the key off. The only thing that happens when you try to start it is the dash lights come on. There hasn’t been any change in the scenario since the first time it happened.

 

thanks for the information on the scanner and I will purchase one. Would take it to a dealer, except would have to have it towed and trying to avoid that. The issue happens in cold or hot weather and fails to start when the engine is at operating temperature or cold. The vehicle only has 25,000 miles on it so the fuel filter should be good. It does have dual batteries, but not dual alternators. Also happens with all power to the RV off.

 

Do you know where the crank sensor is located on your engine ?

A suggestion, it should be above and behind the crank pulley.
It you run the engine in place in your driveway, for example, can you get it to cut off , if so, try dumping some cold water on the crank sensor and if it starts right up , replace that sensor.
A scan tool will not help if this is the problem because crank sensor failure does not throw any codes.

 

Hanky:
If it's the crank sensor wouldn't the OP get a crank no start instead of the no crank no start they're getting?

Here's my thoughts on this:
The engine dies like the key was turned off. That says "electrical" to me rather than "fuel". It won't crank after it stops. That says "electrical" as well but a different circuit.

The ignition (PCM) circuit and the starting circuit separate very early in the wiring scheme.

I'd check for corrosion/bad connections from the battery positive to the under-hood fuse box and from the battery negative to wherever that is grounded to the engine.

 

I believe he has multiple issues.
1) No crank no start intermittently, a bad starter solenoid, the one that's attached to the starter motor.
2) Engine stalling, a bad alternator.
3) A bad MAF
4) A bad battery's ground connection

A dirty fuel filter or any restriction to fuel delivery won't cause "no crank".
A bad MAF can cause engine to stall, but you should be able to restart it right up. When your stater solenoid is also bad then you can't.
When the starter solenoid works intermittently, then you need to test it yourself, and forget to take it to autozone for a free bench test.

a) What I'd do without a scanner, locate the MAF's electrical connector and remember where it's located. Next time it stalls, and it can't be restarted right up, pop the hood and remove the electrical connector of your MAF, then try to restart it and see. For diagnostic purpose, it's fine to drive with MAF disconnected, you'll get rough idling and a check engine light, but the engine should NOT stall again. If that's the case, your MAF is likely bad.
b) Alternator is bad or not, get battery monitor at Keep it if you like it. You can then monitor battery voltage in real time on your phone, and while driving you can see if your alternator is working properly or over or under charging.
c)

Locate the S terminal on your starter solenoid shown above. Next time it doesn't start, use a jump starter cable, connect one end of red alligator to S terminal, turn your key to run position, connect the other end of red alligator to battery's + terminal. If you can start it this way, then your starter solenoid doesn't necessary mean it must be bad sine you said no crank no start intermittently. So you need to test this multiple times to confirm. A good starter solenoid should work 1000 out of 1000 times. A one time failure is not acceptable.

 

Because the engine only runs for such a short period of time I haven’t had it on the road in a while because of the possibility of being stranded. I will find the crank sensor and check it out as you suggested. Can the security system shut the engine down once it is running? I really think you are on something related to the starting circuit and the operating circuit. As I said earlier while driving at interstate speeds, I could cut the ignition off and immediately back on in many times the engine would start back running. This happened multiple times in September 2024.

 

Check the MAF yourself using the procedure provided previously shown above.
If you need a MAF replacement buy only Motorcraft AFLS195. Check here. If you plan to buy that at RockAuto, grab the PCV valve at well. Coupon code: 326288449259187330 expires on 1/30/26.

If it's the alternator overcharging (the cause of stalling) you'd also get light show on your instrument cluster.