In response to etinpa, , yes i agree. Was not aware had no crank also..

The suggestions offered are all good and should correct the problem, hopefully !

 

I appreciate your input, have a great day

 

Sounds like an intermittent electrical issue. Check the battery connections and grounds first. If that doesn't help, you might want to scan for any trouble codes with an OBD scanner.

 

Testing the ground is simple, just need a multimeter, set it to 200Ω and measure resistance. Red lead to battery's ground terminal, black lead to any metal surface on the engine block. Over 2 ohm is a good indication of bad ground strap itself or its connection is corroded or loose from the block to the chassis or battery ground cable to the chassis or the block. This takes less than 5 to 20 seconds to test.
A bad ground connection is definitely possible but less likely, as that would cause much more electrical issues.

Engine stalling, bad MAF has the highest possibility. Never rule out vacuum leak is the cause. A reader/scanner can tell without doing a smoke test. Always check PCV valve and brake booster first for vacuum leak. A stuck open PCV valve has same symptom as vacuum leak. That's why I told him to grab a PCV valve at rockauto (less than $5) if he plans to replace the MAF and save on shipping.

 

Just a reminder,

The better way to check connections is with voltage drop tests.
The reason is,,,,if you have only one strand of wire the circuit will read continuity or 0 ohms,, but would not be able to carry the current required for the circuit to operate if at all. If you need assistance to use your meter to do voltage drop tests, there are many videos to help.
The main requirement to good voltage drop tests is the circuit MUST be under load, OR as if it was operating . Voltage drop tests for the starting circuit require the starter attempting to start the engine , hence ,under load.

 

thanks for your input. I had not considered the need for the circuit to be underload, which makes perfect sense.