98 E-350 Bus Rear AC belt missing
Hi everyone,
I bought a 1998 Ford Econoline E-350 Bus (Startrans) recently, and it came with the rear AC unit in the back. Looking at the engine, I can see the compressor on top that looks like an add-on (I guess the unit in back is made by Carrier?). Anyway, the compressor in front is missing the belt, so I thought I would take a shot and ask if anyone knows a part number for the belt on this monster. It's the V10 6.8L engine.
Also, the front AC doesn't blow cold right now. Am I correct that the front compressor is on the bottom left of the engine? That's something I need to look into as well before it gets too hot here.
Thanks for any assistance!!
I bought a 1998 Ford Econoline E-350 Bus (Startrans) recently, and it came with the rear AC unit in the back. Looking at the engine, I can see the compressor on top that looks like an add-on (I guess the unit in back is made by Carrier?). Anyway, the compressor in front is missing the belt, so I thought I would take a shot and ask if anyone knows a part number for the belt on this monster. It's the V10 6.8L engine.
Also, the front AC doesn't blow cold right now. Am I correct that the front compressor is on the bottom left of the engine? That's something I need to look into as well before it gets too hot here.
Thanks for any assistance!!
Make sure the rear compressor is not frozen before spending too much time looking. If you can't find a listing for a belt, measure the length of the run and the width and depth of the pulley. If they don't have one that will fit, some shops can make one.
The compressor spins freely, but one of the pulleys below is seized, so I plan on removing that one and maybe finding a replacement. The attachment to the fan is also in the way, so I'm going to have to remove the fan to put on the second belt. Not an easy job, but hopefully easier than replacing spark plugs - ugh!
Would something like a sewing tape measure be more appropriate to measure the path instead of something like the rigid tape measures in order to get the correct length? I'm just worreid that if I don't measure with something flexible, I'll be off on my measurement and then it won't work.
Thank you for the response!!!!
Would something like a sewing tape measure be more appropriate to measure the path instead of something like the rigid tape measures in order to get the correct length? I'm just worreid that if I don't measure with something flexible, I'll be off on my measurement and then it won't work.
Thank you for the response!!!!
If you know the approx length and width , there is most likely a belt close to what you need.
I believe I posted a suggestion on an earlier post that offered a possible solution, but I will offer it again.
What you can do is;
take a piece of string and run it around the path the belt would take and use that approx length to obtain a belt close to what you need.
Most auto supply stores will allow you to return any belt that was never used. When you have the approx length and width , I would suggest take 2 or 3 that are close to what you need and you will know which is the best one when you go to adjust the belt tension. The belts you don't need you can return and either request a refund or get another of the size you now know is the best fit. The belts have the dimensions on the holder and a good supply store will have the dimensions of what each part # belt is.
This way you can get the job done in one shot. Don't forget to do as Rusty suggested and make sure the belt has not been removed because there might be a problem with the compressor.
FYI; For example , Gates a belt manufacturer, has a catalog with the dimensions listed and shows what their part # is for that belt. Forget about trying to do this on line.
I believe I posted a suggestion on an earlier post that offered a possible solution, but I will offer it again.
What you can do is;
take a piece of string and run it around the path the belt would take and use that approx length to obtain a belt close to what you need.
Most auto supply stores will allow you to return any belt that was never used. When you have the approx length and width , I would suggest take 2 or 3 that are close to what you need and you will know which is the best one when you go to adjust the belt tension. The belts you don't need you can return and either request a refund or get another of the size you now know is the best fit. The belts have the dimensions on the holder and a good supply store will have the dimensions of what each part # belt is.
This way you can get the job done in one shot. Don't forget to do as Rusty suggested and make sure the belt has not been removed because there might be a problem with the compressor.
FYI; For example , Gates a belt manufacturer, has a catalog with the dimensions listed and shows what their part # is for that belt. Forget about trying to do this on line.
Last edited by hanky; Mar 12, 2021 at 08:22 AM.
That makes total sense. Thanks!!
When you say "frozen" though, if the pulley on the front of the compressor spins freely, then it shouldn't be frozen, correct? I checked the pressure in the refrigerant line and it is charged already, so it is still holding pressure in there. I'm assuming the next step should be to get the compressor turning and then troubleshooting from that point on.
When you say "frozen" though, if the pulley on the front of the compressor spins freely, then it shouldn't be frozen, correct? I checked the pressure in the refrigerant line and it is charged already, so it is still holding pressure in there. I'm assuming the next step should be to get the compressor turning and then troubleshooting from that point on.
FYI, If you turn the pulley part that the belt rides in , that could appear free. Unless you can engage the magnetic clutch the only way you can verify if the compressor is not seized would be to rotate the inner section of the clutch assy that is bolted to the compressor shaft . You can place a wrench on the bolt and rotate it clockwise so as to not loosen it.
If it rotates, it's not seized. Can we ask how you checked the pressure?
If it rotates, it's not seized. Can we ask how you checked the pressure?
OK - I'll try that. Thanks.
I checked the pressure by using an AC recharge bottle on the low side. I didn't add any freon, I just checked to see if there was any pressure at all, and there was (Engine off). I just wanted to see if there was a bigger problem I was going to have to troubleshoot.
The weird thing is the rear AC high side valve is inside the doghouse, but I can't find the low side near it, and it looks to me like there are two separate AC systems in the van, both not working. I can send pics if you're a glutton for gore. The tensioner pulley was the one that is seized, and the bearings are all jacked up, so I'm going to need another one of those.
I checked the pressure by using an AC recharge bottle on the low side. I didn't add any freon, I just checked to see if there was any pressure at all, and there was (Engine off). I just wanted to see if there was a bigger problem I was going to have to troubleshoot.
The weird thing is the rear AC high side valve is inside the doghouse, but I can't find the low side near it, and it looks to me like there are two separate AC systems in the van, both not working. I can send pics if you're a glutton for gore. The tensioner pulley was the one that is seized, and the bearings are all jacked up, so I'm going to need another one of those.
Most of the time,,,,,,, a pix or two or three,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,can be helpful Let's see what we have before jumping in with both feet.
Some compressors have the valves mounted right on top of the compressor, best to see what is there before suggesting anything.
Some compressors have the valves mounted right on top of the compressor, best to see what is there before suggesting anything.
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