Hello Ford lovers.
I'm looking for some help.

I had to replace my shifter tube in my 93 e-150, 300, and the only electrical I had to actually touch was the ignition cylinder.

A week later, I was driving and the van shut off, there was a smell of burning electrical in the cab, and wouldn't start again. It would crank, but wouldn't turn over.

I found there was no spark or power to the fuel pump, and ended up pulling the ECU to find no burnt ports, but burnt connections of the "mother board".

Im hesitant to simply replace the ECU in fear it might just short again, and would prefer to try to source the problem that caused it, and try to fix it.


I am wondering if anyone has any advice, or experience on trying to chase these problems in the ECU, or am I hooped?

Thanks
Dave

 

It might be a good place to start by checking the power path to and from the fuel pump circuitry.

Computers rarely decide by themselves to go south,there is usually help and in this case a cause..
What ever caused this was not protected by a fuse and the computer (ECM) paid the price. Is there any chance a heavier rated fuse replaced a normal/original fuse?

You might start with ECM power to the fuel pump relay,inertia sw,and to fuel pump itself.
You will need a full schematic diagram from heiko if he can supply one. I suspect there was a short to power, but that is guessing.
If we can get that diagram, there will be suggestions for you to check. This can be done , but will require some DETAILED checking. What do you think?

 

You have to bench test (not just a visual test, a real bench test with device) all relays and fuses that's what I'd do first.
Where is the burnt connection of the motherboard? All I see is a burnt spot where the capacitor goes on the lower right. If no fuse blown and only the capacitor on your motherboard blown that indicates a bad PCM internally and not affected externally by changing your shifter tube or anything else your Fuse C (30A) should have blown already. Please note capacitors do go bad every so often (leaking or burning). When you send in your PCM for repair that's what the technicians look for and replace. Coincidently I just replaced a couple 330uf capacitors yesterday with desoldering and soldering. Just to let you know it's not that difficult so you might want to give that a try, save you big time and money if you can get it done correctly. You know you have to do programming when you replace your PCM, find out how much it cost first then decide if you repair or replace yours. Fix it yourself you might need to spend just under $10. Further, in your point of view, if you think your PCM is already bad needs to be replaced, can it gets worse off if you fix it yourself? If you decide to replace it then you have zero risk. Of course, you can check ebay and find a seller who can do repair, send a couple of your pics, ask and see if it's at all repairable, it's free to ask questions.

Additionally why you think you shorted to ground or power on something, perhaps you didn't disconnect your battery ground when working on your shifter tube? Rule of thumb ground cable, if working on SRS, both ground and positive. BTW did you remove your steering wheel when you replaced your shifter tube?


Look at diagram above, then trace the burnt spot on the motherboard both visually plus an ohmmeter, you can at least narrow it down.