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If ,,,there is a crack in the engine intake plastic manifold, that crack may close up when the parts expand and it will be difficult to find, but will allow a lean mixture long enough to trigger a check engine lamp.
You might consider looking for a vacuum leak when engine is first started and cold.
Let us know what you find,thanks.
Some body asked when the Check Engine Light comes on. So I have been paying attention to that and it comes on 15 to 30 seconds after I start it up. I stopped at the back, shut er down, come out 5 minutes later start it up and watch for the light and bang there it is. This has repeated at least 3 times.
It's raining here to beat hell today, and the van doesn't fit inside so no trouble shooting going on today
I had a bit of time and got busy looking for a vacuum leak. It's kinda windy here today. Not helping the situation at all. But I hosed that thing down with carb cleaner and didn't find anything.
I dug into my Blue Driver a little more and found some things of interest.
I'm not convinced that the Bank 1 that I just replaced is working correctly.
Last edited by Menessis; Oct 20, 2025 at 12:43 PM.
Reason: additional information
Update:
I was running out of time yesterday. I decided to disconnect the battery for about an hour. Do the reset thing suggested. I had to leave and I reconnected the battery and off I go.
On the way back...after about an hour and half of driving I got the code reader up and running. And to my surprise that sensor was working.
The Lambda numbers seem to be doing what they should. The spike reflects me going down a steep hill with the load on the engine practically at idle. I watched it for about 30 minutes driving home
So I got home and shut if off. Waited a moment and restarted, waited about a minute and shut it off again and when I restarted this time the light came back on!
How can I prove or disprove that the O2 sensor is or isn't the problem here? Keeping in mind that this problem started after installing that sensor.
If I put the old one back in and that particular code goes away I could assume that the sensor is the problem??
So what brand and where you got them from? Wideband on the upstream? You replaced the downstream narrowband too? When it comes to o2 or maf I would always buy genuine from Ford or Motorcraft.
On my very first post on top I already said it's a must to reset A/F adaptation whenever you replace o2 sensors. Once you reset A/F, all the hidden errors and issues can't be masked, compensated and adjusted by LTFT anymore, all of them will be revealed. You might have one DTC P2195 before, but 10 additional DTCs after the reset. When you address all 10 your van pretty much becomes brand new and very healthy. So the bad thing is you might need to spend $1000+ after the reset.
Here's a screenshot example of my OBDLink App using OBDLink MX+ adapter:
Your BlueDriver may vary and have different display available. You need to look at the LTFT first like I mentioned many times previously. When to monitor the values, your ECT needs to be at least 180F and your EOT as well need to be in operating temperature. You can have ECT with 200F but EOT is only 120F, simply drive a bit more and bring up the EOT.
Update:
After talking to a mechanic I know. He had the big idea to swap O2 sensors from side to side. If the problem changes sides also then we know its a faulty sensor. So 15 minutes later confirmed what I sort of assumed all along. I was on the phone with the supplier getting a new one. It's been a couple of weeks now... no issues.
And while I was in there I figured I better check the air filter. The filter and some debris but otherwise clean. The air breather on the other hand was jammed packed with maple leaves! I can't believe that those things got sucked up into there some how!
