Ok, my OBD1 port isn't working properly. Jumper is in place. Using a meter, these are the results.
With the volt meter negative in slot 4 of the obd1 port, and positive to positive terminal on battery.
With Key off - getting 12 volts
With key on - 2.6 volts and no fluctuation.
In diode mode with key on - it's showing open. And it should be beeping for codes.

Something is shorted or open.

 

IF ,,,,,,,,you have the test light clipped to a good ground and you place the test light point at the other wire connection at the coil, cranking over the engine, that test light should blink
. Do EXACTLY that !
If it does not blink, the distributor pickup coil OR the ign module is defective.
You just need to decide which suggestions you are going to follow..
There is a pick up coil inside the distributor that functions like a crank sensor It sends its info to the ign module attached to the distributor and that info goes to the coil and vehicle computer. When the coil gets the signal it creates the spark as explained earlier.
Something else for you to look at, ,,,dist cap off, have someone crank over the engine and verify the rotor is rotating. have had several where the roll pin holding the gear to the dist shaft had sheared and the rotor either did not move or it did and threw timing out the window.. No move = no spark..

 

That's not exactly what I wanted to hear, but I kind of figured it might be the regulator. The distributor is a biatch to get to. need to be a contortionist.

I'm giving up for the night. But Hanky - and heiko - thank you so very much for your time and effort, your expertise is very much appreciated. I will be back with either positive updates or more questions.

Rob.

 

Pulled the ICM, and all the resistance seems to be ok, nothing open. And from what i remember, it's not often they fail anyway. Doesn't seem like the ICM is getting any power at all.

 

It's the ignition switch. I've been having issues with my starter, having to keep turning the key to get it to engage and start. There is no power to the ICM when the key is on - should be 12 volts.

So, question. Safe to assume it's 12 volts constant while the key is on and the engine is running? I'm thinking of just jumping a 12 volt to a switch inside and a fuse to bypass for now cause I really don't want to pull the column apart. For an inline fuse, what's the max amperage that would go to pin 4 of the ICM pigtail?

Thanks again.

 

 

Well, things just got weird. Everything tests ok, even 12 volts to the ICM pin 4. Just wasn't probing deep enough. So...

I had the coil wire off the coil, forgot to put it back on. And when I tried to start, heard a snap from the coil - it's arcing to the coil mount. Timing light on the coil wire, she's sparking. So spark is getting to the distributor, but it's not distributing. It has to be the cap and rotor, there is nothing left. I did a full tuneup a year ago with new cap, rotor and wires. cleaned up the points but there has to be a larger gap than can arc across. Noticed the rotor is in 2 pieces - the outer contact is brass but the upper button is steel. Tried soldering a jumper but still no luck.

I'll buy a new cap/rotor tomorrow and update. Break the KISS rule and all bets are off... Been a long couple of days of troubleshooting but hey, learned alot about the 351 windsor wiring. Time for a beer or 4.

Thanks again.

 

Don't forget to download the Pinpoint-Tests-ALL.pdf and the index page

 

Not to worry,,,,,,,,,,,,,,after a few beers ,,,,,,all will be forgotten. lol

 

It's not forgotten yet. Ended up with another complete distributor. Nothing. Getting spark from the coil, but dying at the distributor. Went through another bunch of troubleshooting before I pulled the ECU - 2 bad caps. One drives the fuel pump signal and the cylinder id sensor.

Now to find some caps and it's the weekend - electronics stores are all closed. Time for a shot or two of rye. I'll update.