SAGA - 1988 No Crank No Start
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2026
Posts: 6
Thanks Heiko,
I decided to replace the fender-mounted solenoid, because I did a quick test and thought that was the issue. However, it still isn't working.
I went through your tests, and what is weird is I'm getting mixed results for tests A and B. Sometimes the voltage matches the battery voltage, and then usually after running Test B, I don't read any voltage for either test. When I see voltage, I have clicks from the solenoid. When I don't have voltage, there aren't clicks.
Do you think this is a clue?
Thanks for your patience and your detailed instructions!
I decided to replace the fender-mounted solenoid, because I did a quick test and thought that was the issue. However, it still isn't working.
I went through your tests, and what is weird is I'm getting mixed results for tests A and B. Sometimes the voltage matches the battery voltage, and then usually after running Test B, I don't read any voltage for either test. When I see voltage, I have clicks from the solenoid. When I don't have voltage, there aren't clicks.
Do you think this is a clue?
Thanks for your patience and your detailed instructions!
C: It did not crank, but this is the new solenoid that I bought and installed today. I used a smaller wire, maybe 12-16 gauge, not sure if that would affect the test poorly. Something interesting though, when I touched the wire to the battery's positive post, my helper said the electronics in the car (namely the stereo/radio) turned off until I removed the wire from the battery. Do you think that should happen?
D: When I did this test my reading jumped round, but was mostly around 1.5-2 ohms.
Do you think my best next move is assuming the part (starter solenoid) is bad and replacing it again?
Also worth mentioning that the same fuse blew again a few times during this testing session. Got in the habit of checking the fuse after each test. My original vehicle manual says the following about this fuse:
"DOME LAMP, MAP LAMP, MEMORY, POWER DOOR LOCK RELAYS
4.9L COOLING FAN RELAY, RADIO 15 AMP. FUSE (LT. BLUE)"
Any thoughts on this in relation to my issue?
Thanks!
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,619
Is the stereo factory installed or add on ?
THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE REPLACEMENT SOLENOID.
Is the fuse you need to keep replacing actually open ? 15 amp fuse ?
Just an important reminder,,,,,,,,,,,,,using an ohmmeter to verify continuity is OK , but THAT IS ALL
Doesn't tell you anything about the wire's ability to carry any current load that might be required.
THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE REPLACEMENT SOLENOID.
Is the fuse you need to keep replacing actually open ? 15 amp fuse ?
Just an important reminder,,,,,,,,,,,,,using an ohmmeter to verify continuity is OK , but THAT IS ALL
Doesn't tell you anything about the wire's ability to carry any current load that might be required.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2026
Posts: 6
It's an after market radio I installed four years ago.
The fuse that keeps blowing is a 15 amp fuse. What do you mean is it actually open?
Okay so maybe I should try a voltage drop test to the starter motor?
I just disconnected the radio entirely to see if that would allow the vehicle to start. It did not, but now the vehicle won't go out of the ON position, meaning it still isn't starting but the electronics are still activated. I disconnected negative battery cable for now. I'm not sure if this is telling us more about what is going on or is another issuee.
The fuse that keeps blowing is a 15 amp fuse. What do you mean is it actually open?
Okay so maybe I should try a voltage drop test to the starter motor?
I just disconnected the radio entirely to see if that would allow the vehicle to start. It did not, but now the vehicle won't go out of the ON position, meaning it still isn't starting but the electronics are still activated. I disconnected negative battery cable for now. I'm not sure if this is telling us more about what is going on or is another issuee.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,619
Ya know,,,,,,you are reading my mind !
We need to work backward and determine why the stereo cuts off at ANY time .
There is a power problem that needs to be found.
If for instance, a partial short to power someplace ,,IN that circuit,, that would cause the fuse to blow.
Then why would power drop when you ran an alternate path with the jumper wire. We use "Power" here because it gets absent when it should be in addition to instead of preventing original power from doing it's job.
A suggestion,,,,,,,,,,remove some power requiring items from the system and see what we get. Then connect them one at a time and that item will let you know it is the source of the problem.
Might sound a little confusing, but I believe you get what I am attempting to describe.
Stay with it and if you can, kinda hold off replacing good parts, lol.
We need to work backward and determine why the stereo cuts off at ANY time .
There is a power problem that needs to be found.
If for instance, a partial short to power someplace ,,IN that circuit,, that would cause the fuse to blow.
Then why would power drop when you ran an alternate path with the jumper wire. We use "Power" here because it gets absent when it should be in addition to instead of preventing original power from doing it's job.
A suggestion,,,,,,,,,,remove some power requiring items from the system and see what we get. Then connect them one at a time and that item will let you know it is the source of the problem.
Might sound a little confusing, but I believe you get what I am attempting to describe.
Stay with it and if you can, kinda hold off replacing good parts, lol.
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