I finished the rest of the tests.

C: It did not crank, but this is the new solenoid that I bought and installed today. I used a smaller wire, maybe 12-16 gauge, not sure if that would affect the test poorly. Something interesting though, when I touched the wire to the battery's positive post, my helper said the electronics in the car (namely the stereo/radio) turned off until I removed the wire from the battery. Do you think that should happen?

D: When I did this test my reading jumped round, but was mostly around 1.5-2 ohms.

Do you think my best next move is assuming the part (starter solenoid) is bad and replacing it again?

Also worth mentioning that the same fuse blew again a few times during this testing session. Got in the habit of checking the fuse after each test. My original vehicle manual says the following about this fuse:
"DOME LAMP, MAP LAMP, MEMORY, POWER DOOR LOCK RELAYS
4.9L COOLING FAN RELAY, RADIO 15 AMP. FUSE (LT. BLUE)"
Any thoughts on this in relation to my issue?

Thanks!

 

Is the stereo factory installed or add on ?

THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE REPLACEMENT SOLENOID.

Is the fuse you need to keep replacing actually open ? 15 amp fuse ?

Just an important reminder,,,,,,,,,,,,,using an ohmmeter to verify continuity is OK , but THAT IS ALL

Doesn't tell you anything about the wire's ability to carry any current load that might be required.

 

It's an after market radio I installed four years ago.

The fuse that keeps blowing is a 15 amp fuse. What do you mean is it actually open?

Okay so maybe I should try a voltage drop test to the starter motor?

I just disconnected the radio entirely to see if that would allow the vehicle to start. It did not, but now the vehicle won't go out of the ON position, meaning it still isn't starting but the electronics are still activated. I disconnected negative battery cable for now. I'm not sure if this is telling us more about what is going on or is another issuee.

 

Ya know,,,,,,you are reading my mind !

We need to work backward and determine why the stereo cuts off at ANY time .
There is a power problem that needs to be found.
If for instance, a partial short to power someplace ,,IN that circuit,, that would cause the fuse to blow.
Then why would power drop when you ran an alternate path with the jumper wire. We use "Power" here because it gets absent when it should be in addition to instead of preventing original power from doing it's job.
A suggestion,,,,,,,,,,remove some power requiring items from the system and see what we get. Then connect them one at a time and that item will let you know it is the source of the problem.
Might sound a little confusing, but I believe you get what I am attempting to describe.
Stay with it and if you can, kinda hold off replacing good parts, lol.

 

I need separate and clear answer on test A and B.
Test A do you get any battery voltage, yes or no.

Don't worry about click or no click.Test B do you get any voltage at terminal S, yes or no, consistently or intermittently?
With alligator clamped at the same spot and don't move it to different spot, consistently or intermittently?

Because you didn't use alligator clamp to a steady spot, but 2 ohm is fine.

You MUST pass test A before you can do test C, the B terminal of your starter relay needs hot at all times battery power.
I mentioned about the fusible link G, you removed it for bench test? Just a simple continuity test can do it, remove and test it. This fusible link if blown, you won't get any 12v to your ignition switch and perhaps your entire interior, circuit 37, the thick yellow wire. If your ignition switch doesn't get 12v, the trigger wire going to your S terminal also wouldn't get any 12V when key is turned.

 

Be careful with fusible links , they are color coded according to level of protection.

One way you might check a fusible link, tug carefully on one end , it has a smaller gauge wire inside . If it feel like spaghetti, it is open !
Fusible links allow a little more time for an electrical short or overload before they open. Prevents a wire fire !!!.
If one is open, you need to determine the cause for the overload before re[placing it.

 

IT STARTED! I bypassed the ground strap with a jumper cable and it finally started. I am very happy.

I had realized my multimeter was running low on battery and was able to test more accurately after replacing the battery.

Thanks for all your help hanky and heiko!! I should be able to find and replace the ground straps easily I think, but if you have any advice I'll always take the knowledgable help.

Thanks again.

 

A suggestion,,,,,, maybe advice,,,,,,,,,,,replace both battery cables, that way you can be sure with clean connections, that full battery power is available to ground and positive side of electrical system. Should be good for another " Many Years".

Thank You for the update !
Have a good Memorial Day holiday !