My 2017 Escape Titanium died a couple of miles from home this morning after 120 miles of highway driving after filling 2 days ago, and 12 miles of town driving yesterday. It started jerking, lost power, and finally just died. It would start for a half second a few times but no luck beyond that. I'm thinking maybe fuel filter. Anyone know anything about these late model 2.0 Turbo boost set ups?

 

Something you might try,

Because it happened right after you purchased fuel, remove one of the easiest to get at spark plugs,and look at it.. If it is wet , it could be loaded with water.

If you can lite the end of the plug with a match and the wetness won't burn, it is water. ! If it it ignites and burns easily ,we are looking for something else..

If we are sure it is contaminated with water, a fuel line will need to be removed and allow the fuel pump to pump out some of that water. Some late models only have the filter sock in the tank and no other fuel filter.This can get a little involved and NOT SURE if you want to go there.
When we are fairly sure most of the water has been pumped out , add some good gas and a couple containers of seafoam or drygas ,then remove a few more plugs and dry them off . Reinstall them clean and dry and hopefully the engine will start and eventualy clear up and run normally. This is based on , IF YOU PURCHASED A LOAD OF WATER. Some company stations will cover the expense of having this corrected if it is their fault the fuel is/was full of water.

 

I would check your fuel pressure, the fuel filter and pump are in the tank.. If you had water in the gas, I doubt you would have gotten 120 miles before it conked out.

 

Thanks, guys for the responses. I also was puzzled as to how I made it 120 miles if it was water in the tank because it ran perfectly until it didn't. And thanks for confirming the filter is in the tank. Since really bad weather was forecast I just had a towing company take it home for me and took another vehicle. I didn't have any time to do any troubleshooting at the time, but 8 hours or so later I went out and it started, ran good and didn't seem to have a problem, but it now has a MIL. I have a new scanner arriving today since my older XRAY doesn't work on this late model. (Your thoughts on what that might tell us, please.) I let it run for several minutes, revved it up for a few, etc, and moved it under the carport since hail was forecast. All of that was before I read your responses, so pulling the plugs is probably useless now. Now 3 days later I'm still scared to drive it, and unless I can pin point the problem I guess I'll just wonder. I'm tempted to drop the tank and check for whatever it might show, but pulling a line and pumping out some might tell me just as much. Additives is a good next step. Thanks again.

 

OK. Had time only to run a check on the DTCs. They are:PO236 turbocharger/supercharger Boost Sensor A circuit. Range/performance
PO106 Manifold absolute. Pressure/barometric pressure. Circuit range performance.
PO340 Camshaft Position Sensor A. Circuit bank 1 or single sensor
PO365 Camshaft Position Sensor B. Circuit bank
PO6A7 Sensor Reference Voltage B. Circuit range performance
Those are the scanner's descriptions of the DTC code. I'm in over my head on this, but the computer gives some info for what to check, or how to find what is causing these. My newest other auto is an 05 suburban, but my wife wanted a smaller vehicle so we bought this Escape for her. I may have reached the end of self repairing.

 

A wiring diagram would be the thing to have to see what is supplying the power to these sensors and where their ground is coming from.
Without that all you can do is check the voltage at each of those sensors and it may be something like 5 volts or should be.You might get lucky checking ground connections. What we are looking for is which one of those they all have in common.

 

Looks like fuel filter is no longer an apt description or Title for this. I may never know what caused this because all of the DTCs are gone. The first 2 on my list above stayed on after I cleared the others (after recording them) and the MIL went off. New to me was the fact the two that didn't clear were Permanent DTCs, so I cleared them with a Drive Cycle (which I also had never heard of before--Thank you internet). Took it on a 20 mile drive with no problems. Fingers crossed. Maybe it just got a large gulp of water, gagged and passed out, came to and is now OK. If it happens again the 5v circuit and grounds will be first on my radar. Thanks guys!!!