Need help with p0352 p0354 and no ac
#1
Need help with p0352 p0354 and no ac
Im trying to help a lady thats retiring by trouble shooting her 2005 escape v6.. It has those two codes, I replaced all the coils and its not any better. The same two holes misfiring. She also claims the ac worked before, but its not now, coincidence? This is her only vehicle so she is walking to work at the moment. Any tips on how to diagnose this?
Thank you
Thank you
#2
The suspect coils could have been swapped with other cylinders, rechecking the codes again, saving her the unnecessary expense. Hopefully you used Motorcraft coils and not aftermarket ones. Save the old coils!
The other items to check that could set those codes are bad spark plugs for cylinders 2 and 4, faulty coil wiring/connectors for the suspect cylinders or a leak with the intake manifold. Keep in mind you have 4 working cylinders meaning you can substitute parts from working cylinders instead of parts guessing.
I wouldn't worry about the a/c right now till you can get a good running 6 cylinder engine to run that compressor.
The other items to check that could set those codes are bad spark plugs for cylinders 2 and 4, faulty coil wiring/connectors for the suspect cylinders or a leak with the intake manifold. Keep in mind you have 4 working cylinders meaning you can substitute parts from working cylinders instead of parts guessing.
I wouldn't worry about the a/c right now till you can get a good running 6 cylinder engine to run that compressor.
#4
Missing signals? What are you actually seeing? what equipment do you have to see these signals?
It could be possible but I would want to rule out all possibilities before pointing the finger at one of the most reliable parts on the vehicle.
It could be possible but I would want to rule out all possibilities before pointing the finger at one of the most reliable parts on the vehicle.
#5
#6
What the PCM does is provide the ground for the coil to fire at the correct time.
If you have a test lite to use it is simple to verify.
Clip the test lite to the battery positive terminal and place the probe end in the signal wire (ground) that comes from the PCM to the respective coil .
If the light flashes when the engine is running ,the PCM is providing the ground signal . if not , MUST verify signal is actually coming out of the PCM because if it is , there is/are open connections.to the coils in question.
Might be a better choice to have a shop do this for you .
If you have a test lite to use it is simple to verify.
Clip the test lite to the battery positive terminal and place the probe end in the signal wire (ground) that comes from the PCM to the respective coil .
If the light flashes when the engine is running ,the PCM is providing the ground signal . if not , MUST verify signal is actually coming out of the PCM because if it is , there is/are open connections.to the coils in question.
Might be a better choice to have a shop do this for you .
#7
What the PCM does is provide the ground for the coil to fire at the correct time.
If you have a test lite to use it is simple to verify.
Clip the test lite to the battery positive terminal and place the probe end in the signal wire (ground) that comes from the PCM to the respective coil .
If the light flashes when the engine is running ,the PCM is providing the ground signal . if not , MUST verify signal is actually coming out of the PCM because if it is , there is/are open connections.to the coils in question.
Might be a better choice to have a shop do this for you .
If you have a test lite to use it is simple to verify.
Clip the test lite to the battery positive terminal and place the probe end in the signal wire (ground) that comes from the PCM to the respective coil .
If the light flashes when the engine is running ,the PCM is providing the ground signal . if not , MUST verify signal is actually coming out of the PCM because if it is , there is/are open connections.to the coils in question.
Might be a better choice to have a shop do this for you .
#8
If the type test light you have doesn't work,you can verify the same test with a simple voltmeter.
With the key on you should have 12 volts coming into and out of the coil.
If the ECU is grounding the coil when cranking over the engine , the reading at the ground side of the coil should drop . Does it?
With the key on you should have 12 volts coming into and out of the coil.
If the ECU is grounding the coil when cranking over the engine , the reading at the ground side of the coil should drop . Does it?
#9
If the type test light you have doesn't work,you can verify the same test with a simple voltmeter.
With the key on you should have 12 volts coming into and out of the coil.
If the ECU is grounding the coil when cranking over the engine , the reading at the ground side of the coil should drop . Does it?
With the key on you should have 12 volts coming into and out of the coil.
If the ECU is grounding the coil when cranking over the engine , the reading at the ground side of the coil should drop . Does it?
Ill give it a try, if the wire is 100% making contact from the ecu to the coil, and its not firing, Im not sure what this test will prove? Out of curiosity
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