Hi everyone,

This is my second time posting this as it appears that the first one didn't go through. I am completely new to the whole forum thing so if I mess something up, my apologies. I have a 2007 Mercury Mariner Premier 3.0L V6 with the CD4E automatic transmission. I know that those transmissions are horribly infamous for problems and I have been very lucky with mine as I got to nearly 215,000 miles before it "died". I got the transmission pulled and taken apart and I have some questions.

How do I know if the frictions are good or bad/or how much material is suppose to be on them? (may be adding pictures)
How do I know if the torque converter is bad while off the vehicle? (when installed in the bell housing it will turn by hand)

I started on my way to work. Two times in a row when shifting the RPMs went over 3000 when they usually stay around 2000 with my driving. I thought "that's not good". Once I got to work, I went to back into a parking space (on a slight incline that leads to a storm drain) and it struggled to reverse but I eventually got it. I check the transmission fluid level and color which were fine and it didn't smell burnt. When I went to go home it didn't want to go into gear and when it finally did, it didn't hold for long. It would "grab" and go whatever random distance and then "let go" and roll to stop in which case I had to pull over and wait for it to "grab" again. I had to limp it home like this rolling to a stop and waiting for it to re-engage. At one point I think I got up to as high as 45mph before it "let go". Also, there was like a metal whining sound in forward that would increase with engine speed. After getting it home, before pulling the tranny, from a cold start it would take a few seconds to go into reverse or forward. With reverse I have 10 at best to reverse it to wherever I want, but then forward would not work at all. If starting in forward, the "metal whine" was still there and it would engage after a few seconds. I tested both shift solenoids with a test wire and they did click/react. Tranny oil cooler and lines are not clogged. Nothing in the transmission oil pump appeared broke and the 2-4 band was not broke and still had material. I do know that one of the friction plates IS smoked and a few of the steels have a few blueish spots where they may have taken some heat. I believe the input turbine, I think it is, has kind of a rough spot on it. I don't know for sure what is usable and what needs replaced besides the one friction that is smoked. I don't want to replace more than what I need.

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for the help.

 

By this time you know if you are going to do a job, do it right or don't do it at all.
If you purchased a trans rebuild kit , it comes with a bunch of parts . nylon sealing rings, rubber type piston sealing rings , fiber covered discs , steel rings, check ***** , gaskets and filter. If you don't have the tools to disassemble the clutch packs , stop there and either get them or take the trans to someone that has them. There are special plastic rings that hold the clutch seals so the assembly can be assembled. Sometimes you can get away without them, but there is one for low and reverse clutch in that trans that cannot be assembled correctly without the correct seal tool. The very first time I rebuilt one of those for a friend , I skipped replacing one of the split rings on the input shaft because it looked OK. When he brought the trans back and said the vehicle didn't want to move, I learned never do that again !!!
It is a simple trans to do, but you must be thorough and accurate.or else don't touch it. If you don't have a shop manual get one from ATSG, in Florida.
I don't mean to be critical, but it is no picnic doing the job over again. Just take your time and go slow and do it right, you can do it.

 

Thank you hanky for your response. What about the whining sound and checking the torque converter?

No one else has anything to say?

 

Torque converters don't usually make any noise. If there is any doubt about it's condition , you can always get rebuilt converters.

Some flex-plates that bolted to the converter were known to crack and make noise. I would check that plate very carefully for any cracks.