My daughter drives a 1995 Ford Escort. Up until about three weeks ago it ran like a champ.

Then the car started dying while stopped at intersections. The car wouldn't shutter or shake. One second it would be running fine and the next it would just die.

She can turn the key off then start the car right back up. It might experience this problem again before the light turns green, or it might be a few days before it happens again.

I cleaned the throttle plate which was filthy. I put a bottle of Gumout in the tank. The fuel filter, and air filter, are about 6 months old.

The RPM's run in the 800-900 range when at idle.

This car was bought used about a year ago. It was in great shape body wise and only had 70k miles. It actually was driven by a little old lady in California (not sure if she was from Pasadena though) who was the original owner.

I'm thinking that the fuel pump might be getting tired, or it's time for some new plugs, wires, distributer, and rotor.

Any other thoughts from folks who know more about this model car than I do?

 

At 70000 miles it would be time to replace plugs wires, rotor and cap. The distributor itself is probably still o.k.
You may also replace the PCV valve and check for vacuum leaks.
Then I would use "CRC" throttle body cleaner and clean the throttle body. While there make sure the EGR ports are open.
I would clean the MAF sensor with "CRC" MAF sensor cleaner.
Finally: I believe Hanky or Greasemark posted somewhere that the battery connectors and vicinity are prone to cake up with corrosion in these cars and may cause intermittent contacts.

 

The '95 Ford Escort has a direct ignition system. There is no distributor.

One minute it's running, and the next second it just dies, like you turned the key off, is an indication of an electrical/ignition problem.

Start with simple things first.

Indepth, meticulous visual inspection for corroded, frayed, melted, damaged, wires, and/or loose connection(s). Connections where the locking tabs are broken off.

Is the Check Engine light On or Off when the engine is running?

 

Yeah, I noticed it has a coil pack as opposed to a distributer and rotor, when I started working on it this morning.

I also found the cause of the problem. The elbow boot, on the topside of the PCV valve tube, had a big hole in it. I started the car and it sounded like it was about to die. Today was the first time I could validate what my daughter had told me. I could also hear the vacuum hissing sound. I placed my thumb over the hole and the idle smoothed out. I removed my thumb and the idle dropped.

I replaced the elbow and all was fine. I went ahead and gave it a tune up with new plugs and wires. Then I cleaned the EGR valve.

The car runs very well now. I did notice some chatter coming from under the valve cover. So, I will need to adjust those soon. But, for right now, all is well.

 

Great! I'm glad you found the problem, and it was an easy fix

Bluewind in the House!!!.

Hydralic lifters need no adjustment.

Let me (us, as in forum members) know it you have anymore questions.

Cheers.

 

There ya go, Ron!
Hydraulic lifters normally don't need to be adjusted. I would think that everything is normal here. But these engines have timing belts and the timing belts need to be changed. There may be enough slop already to cause some noise. But: these engines are not known for their quietness!
Get the timing belt and tensioner changed within 10000miles or so.
You probably changed the oil already. About 200 miles before the next change you could put 1/3 of a bottle of "Seafoam" into the oil. It will remove a bunch of sludge and maybe loosen a sticky lifter or a sticky piston ring. Obviously this Escort has been on short distance duty and that could promote the accumulation of crud in the engine.

I recently added "Restore" to my new oil. All our vehicles have more than 100K. It made them run with less noise and a little less vibration.
In the Ford Contour I put some packaging foam under parts that tend to rattle and I added a sound dampening matting under the hood. (NAPA, special ordered, $50.00). Those measures really made a difference.

Thexlo8ers: thanks for the kudos!

 

It's always been my understanding that hydraulic lifters can be adjusted. Although they don't normally need to be due to the nature of the design.

I've just never noticed that clanking sound before. The sound appears to be coming from under the valve cover. But, I guess the sound could be traveling from the timing chain/belt.

I can do tune ups, and alot of normal repairs on vehicles. But, it has been nearly 25 years since I've removed so much as a valve cover on an engine. Might be time to shake off the rust.

 

you might think about changing the fuel filter and do a complete tune up on it ! change the plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor ! if the fuel filter is clogging up then dirt could have washed up into the fuel regulator and got into the injectors! did you try some complete fuel system cleaner ? i would start by changing the fuel filter and put a bottle of good complete fuel system cleaner in the tank !

 

Ron: the Haynes manual for the Ford Contour (2L engine) says that the valve lash should be adjusted when there is excessive valve chatter. This might be the case in this engine. So you have the perfect excuse to shake off your rust!

I would remove the cover over the timing gears first and idle the engine, give it a few bursts. I had a situation where a bolt for the idler pulley was broken. The belt may be missing a tooth or something like that. These things are made of rubber and rubber doesn't age very well.

Get a stethoscope and isolate the area that makes the noise first.