From 1983 through the mid 90s, Ford used TFI (Thin Film Ignition) module. It was horribly suseptible to heat, and many were mounted directly to the distributor housing.
Multiple lawsuits were filed against Ford, including a nationwide class action, alleging that the defective TFI module caused accidents, injuries, and eleven deaths.

Here's a more detailed list of Ford vehicles that used the TFI module:

• 1984-94 Mustang/Capri (2.3L, 5.0L HO)
• 1984-86 Mustang SVO TC (2.3L)
• 1984-90 Tempo/Topaz (2.3L, 2.3L HSC)
• 1984-91 Thunderbird/Cougar (2.3L TC, 3.8L, 5.0L)
• 1986-95 Taurus/Sable (2.5L, 3.0L, 3.8L)
• 1984-92 Mark VII (5.0L)
• 1984-89 Town Car (5.0L)
• 1986-91 Ranger/Bronco II (2.9L)
• 1984-91 Bronco (4.9L, 5.0L)
• 1984-91 F-150, F-250, F-350 Trucks (4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)
• 1984-91 E-150 Vans (4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)
• 1984-85 & 1988-91 Aerostar (2.3L, 3.0L)
• 1984-86 Escort/EXP TC (1.6L), 1986-88 Escort/Lynx (1.9L), 1985-90 Escort/Lynx HO (1.9L)

I have burnt out three TFI modules on my 1988 Escort in as many years. One was Motorcraft, one was Standard Products, and the third was NAPA house brand Echlin. The "new" modules available range in price from $40-120+. They're all garbage but 37 years later it's all there is. Relocating the module to a cooler spot has been done by many other people, there are YouTube videos on the subject, but none specifically about the Escort.

So that's what this discussion is about; and I'd like some feedback.

There isn't much real estate available in the engine compartment so I'm thinking on the front bulkhead, behind the grill. It will be 'exposed' to wet conditions (not much here in central California), but it isn't protected any better in it's present location on the distributor.

There are three wires for the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup), and 6-16ga wires that must run from the module back to the main harness; 3 of these six must be shielded, and grounded to prevent spurious signals to the EEC.

I've collected all the various components; copper shielding mesh, marine-grade wire, and crimp connectors, split-sleeve wire harness sheathing, etc. Ford later moved the module away from the distributor, and mounted the module on a diecast aluminmun heat sink; I found one.

Shown here with the grill removed.
X marks where the hood release lever would hit the module when closed.


I would actually like this thing located further back in the engine compartment, but there just isn't room.




I have the complete 1988 Ford Shop Electrical drawings for the 1988 Escort.





Any WTF-are-you-thinking thoughts at this point?

 

Conductors for circuits; PIP (349), SPOUT (324) and Ignition Ground (259) must be shielded to prevent spurious signals to the coil.
"Factory shielding" is an aluminum foil wrapped around the conducts ( 3-4 turns per foot ), with a wire connected to the foil that is then grounded to the engine block.

I am using Scotch Electrical Shielding Tape; tinned copper braid.
here is no adhesive, the "tape" conforms to the wire bundle by cold-forming it with hand pressure. The ground wire is then soldered directly onto the tape.
The tape is actually tubular (lower left corner of photo), so conductors could be run through it.

 

A lot of folks DO NOT use the heat sink compound when installing the replacement unit.

Did you use it ?

 

I never really understood the whole heat paste thing anyway, what with the TFI mounted to the distributor... I think more heat is transferring FROM the distributor than the other way around. I don't have one of those laser-thermometers so I can't say what the surface temperature of the distributor is, but I'm guessing at least 175-200°F

But I think I will use it, even with the remotely mount TFI, the steel plate that the heat sink is mounted to, and being in the airflow behind the grill; the more heat transfer TO the heat sink, the better. I'm actually a little concerned about vibration now... .

I'm not done yet; waiting for ratcheting type crimping tool to show up.

 

I opted to gut an old TFI and use it as the "terminal block" rather than just using crimp terminals directly into the distributor. I was concerned about crud making its way into the PIP sensor.

I bought some epoxy "potting compound" to backfill the cavity with.



"Nibbled" down using side-cut pliers, and block sanded flat.