From the info posted, I suspect a vacuum leak on bank 2, the driver's side,.
Now you need to determine just where that leak is.

The Oxygen sensor is showing a very high reading and that is because the computer is attempting to add fuel to correct that..

Do you hear any exhaust leaks? Cracked exhaust manifold is one other thing to check..

 

Hanky, i am glad the readings i took helped out in pinpointing where my issie might lie.
So i noticed that I have a leak somewhere near the muffler but u am unaware if that would cause the issue. I am debating on removing the muffler. But that's up in the air. I am debating on possibly buying a smoke machine to help pin point my issue or I may just wait till next week so I can drop it off at My mechanics shop

 

99.22 is a default max out value and which also means it is N/A you can ignore the value from both downstream ones.
If your MAF is still quite new, cleaning might help. If you ever need to buy it again, don't go cheap, it's the 2nd most curcial sensor on most cars.

 

If you want to,
With the engine idling , brake applied and in park, using a short piece of something like garden hose place one end close to your ear and move the other around the engine compartment exhaust parts. If there is any leak there you will hear it through the hose. Very simple but effective. JUST BE CAREFUL and do not go near any moving parts like belts or pulleys.
If you want to , let us know what you find., thanks.

 

thanks for the info. Being that the maf is new it should still be covered under warranty....I learned from my taurus not to go cheap I found out he hardway when it comes to electrical to stick with Motorcraft parts. luckily for me my mechanic is family so getting the maf sensor swapped out will be a breeze.... he is already aware to get it ordered for a just in case....

 

Hmm interesting have never heard of this method. Thank you for the heads up.

 

While waiting for a new MAF you can also unplug yours then start up your car and take a 10 minutes drive and see the difference, it's fine for diagnostic purposes, you will get a CEL but you can clear that later on, you will also lose power or get into limp mode which you can also ignore, your goal is to pay attention to your idling and RPM differences. Then you can plug your MAF back in. If you search my posts using MAF or neutral keyword you can see those mentioned many times. Neutral is when I tell them to shift the gear to neutral for diagnostic purpose as well, one of the easiest methods to diagnose to isolate and narrow down something. You can search google and see what shifting to neutral do on cars with automatic tranny.

 

Heiko, as for my truck I did disconnect but didnt leave it disconnected for that long i wasnt sitting in it to verify if rpms were jumping around. I have noticed that the truck does have the rough idle in neutral and park but also in drive.

 

Well had a quick visit to mechanic today. Unable to get a smoke test done but it's scheduled for Monday. Tech drove it and he was able to notice when the brake is applied and pressed several times. Brake booster Maybe at fault but we shall find out on monday.

 

If you want to try this, pull the plastic check valve out of the booster grommet and place your finger over the end while the engine is idling. If the roughness is gone, the booster is leaking vacuum internally. .
Let us know what you find, thanks.