1994 Ford F150 4x4. 6 cylinder 300 CID engine. 5 Speed manual transmission.

First: I have a manual Mazda M5ODR2 5 Speed. When shifting from second to third the gear grinds a little before going into third. Occasionally I can get it to go in without grinding, but then it's difficult to push into gear (no sound, just difficulty/resistance). Doesn't do it when downshifting from fourth to third, only when going up from Second to Third. Also, shifting from fourth to overdrive it's difficult to find the gear/shift into OD. I've even spent so much time searching for the OD placement, I had to go back to fourth just to get the speed high enough again.
I've researched this transmission and found a blurb on another site that said something about replacing the "three rubber shift plugs". Anyone else heard of this? I'd really like to either validate or debunk this as it keeps popping up as a possible solution to my problem.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...e_Measure.html

Second: Recently, I replaced the rear tank and sending unit. The old one had been inoperable and empty for an undetermined amount of time (minimum 8 months that previous owner owned it) and was pretty dang rusty. Problem is, the truck won't run off the rear tank. I can start (and run) fine off the front tank, but soon as I switch to the rear tank, the truck runs for a short time (max 30 seconds), sputters and spits for about 10 seconds (like it's starving for fuel) then dies. Someone suggested it was the fuel filter between the two tanks, but the fuel filter on this model is on the engine-side of the fuel-selection unit, so both tanks run thru one filter. As the front tank is running fine, I find that is probably not the problem. (Will replace at my earliest convenience, tho). I'm at a loss . Any suggestions?

 

A good sequence of checking the rear tank system might start with confirming the switch on the dash is sending the voltage back to the rear fuel pump. You can do that either at the switch or at the rear pump wiring . Of course at the rear pump would be better since you would be checking the wiring to the pump at the same time. If you can confirm a good voltage supply to the pump and a good ground for it to operate the only thing left is the pump itself, in the tank.

 

Thanks, I will check that out. I know the switch is good, as I replaced that at the same time as the tank (found the old one had been glued into the dash, and the previous owner glued it in the "front tank" position - superglue: tricky stuff).

 

What should the voltage be at the Tank??Trying to get my 85 to read gas so im dropping the tank in the am and seeing if its still all together..

 

The voltage to the fuel pump at the tank should be battery power when it's turned on. You could jumper the fuel pump relay, but EEC powers up the fuel pump for about two seconds when the key is turned on, to prime the system. The wire should be pink/black. The larger of the two black wires is to ground.