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2008 F150 5.4 3V Triton Won't Start

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Old Dec 20, 2015 | 11:17 PM
  #1  
Narukin's Avatar
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Default 2008 F150 5.4 3V Triton Won't Start

My truck recently broke down due to the timing chain losing time. I've checked and rechecked my new chain and guides about a thousand times now to make sure that they are in the correct positions. As far as I can tell the timing SHOULD be fine.


The marks on my chains are lined up with the marks on my sprocket and phasers. The single links are lined up with the 6 o'clock mark (with the key at 11 o'clock) and the double links are lined up with the "L" and "R" (on driver's side and passenger side respectively).


After hooking up the chain I threw everything else back together and the truck wouldn't start. It cranks just fine though.


I tested fuel pressure and that's fine.
I tested the coils and they are sparking.
I sprayed some starter fluid into the throttle body and it still would only crank.
When I checked the injection pulse it wasn't pulsing. Rather it was just staying on. Would that give it too much fluid to be able to spark?


I also read that there I a sensor on the bottom of the front panel next to the timing chain sprocket, and if it is not connected the truck would crank but not start. I checked that and it is also connected.


Any ideas?


edit:


I also Checked my fuses and they all look fine. I did see one idea that my sensor might just be broken. Although the truck would start before I replaced the timing chain.
Also when trying to crank it occasionally sounds like it's trying to fire. It isn't constant though. Very few and far between.


Sorry for edits, just trying t give as much information as possible.
 

Last edited by Narukin; Dec 20, 2015 at 11:22 PM.
Old Dec 21, 2015 | 12:36 AM
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Update
I used a code reader and the only code I am getting is an ABS code. I looked it up and it should have nothing to do with my current predicament.
 
Old Dec 21, 2015 | 06:37 PM
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Three things that you might confirm,
1. when you placed the chain on the driver's side did you take up the slack on the bottom side of the chain when placing the double colored links over the "L" ?
2. The pass side the slack gets taken up on the top side of the chain when placing the double colored links.
3. The timing sprocket gear should have the word "front" facing outside toward you.
If all that is good then we need to determine why the PCM is not grounding the injectors.
If there is some problem with the ABS module it could possibly be preventing it from starting in which case you can disconnect the ABS module and see what you get.
Sometimes something simple like a ground wire left off could be taking you for a ride.
The crank sensor or the wiring from it might have a break in it, make sure there is continuity and no broken wires.
 
Old Dec 23, 2015 | 03:58 PM
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Thanks for the reply Hanky.


Yes the left side bottom was pulled tight and the right side top was pulled tight. And the sprocket has "front" facing front.


I did find that the pin on the left phaser had broke and so it was way out of time. I replaced that phaser as well as its sensor.


I was thinking that one of the other sensors might be broken too but when cranking you can hear it try to fire.

I took off my heads and have found two bent valves on the left head. I haven't checked the right head yet though. (And side note, why is there such a huge bolt holding that transmission dip stick on the head? Must have taken 20 minutes to get that off)


At this point, as far as I can tell the timing is all correct. I also checked my camshafts to make sure they weren't warped or anything crazy.


While pulling the right side head I did find a ground that was broken. I may have broke it while trying to get the bolt to break however.


Another thing I noticed is that my code reader seems to act funny. I forced my throttle body open when trying to start so that I could spray some starter fluid in there (which actually made the the motor stop firing at all) And it threw a code for that. However, whenever I unplug and other electrical I don't get any codes.


I'll try your ABS idea after a replace all the valves I find that are bent.


Edit:
And one more thing. The way the motor sound while I'm cranking it, seems as though it's on the wrong stroke. I checked my camshafts with the number one piston at TDC and the camshaft seems to be in the correct spot all the way down.
Is there something that could cause it to be on the wrong stroke?
 
Old Dec 23, 2015 | 04:33 PM
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Sorry for long winded posts here. I just keep thinking of different things we've tried and I'm at a loss.


On the one hand I think that there has got to be something simple that messed up when I first replaced the timing chain because when the truck first broke down I brought it to a mechanic. They wanted $3000 to replace the timing chain and I said screw that I'll do it. At that point I was able to start the truck to get it over to my brothers house. It ran like trash but it would start. The way it was running it just seemed like a timing issue.


So I think that there has got to be something I messed up while replacing the timing chain.


I used a make-shift noid light to check my injectors and they are all fine. I even pulled the rail off so I could watch the injectors and make sure they were running correctly.


I pulled the boots for the spark plugs and they are all getting sparks.


The only other things I disconnected were the computer and the sensors for the phasers and crankshaft. The wiring for both phasers looks fine. One of those sensors is brand new, I suppose the other one could be messed up but I hadn't pulled it out the first few times I pulled the motor apart.


I haven't followed the line for the crankshaft yet, so I guess it could be split or something. But it shouldn't be because I haven't messed with the wire at all. I pulled that sensor out every time so I could get the timing cover off.


So I'm thinking it has to be one of those sensors or the computer that's keeping it from starting. Although, I am glad I tore it even further apart since I'm finding those bent valves (I cant get my compression tester to work because it came with 14mm and 18mm and I haven't found an adapter anywhere for 16mm).


We keep tearing the engine down further and further because there doesn't seem to be anything simple wrong, but I keep thinking that it HAS to be something simple because the truck would start before we replace the timing chain.


Everything for the timing chain is hooked up correctly. Myself and my two brothers have all watched about 400 different youtube videos about it, read 500 forum posts about it and read and re-read the rebuild manual. The actual mechanical part of the timing is correct, with about 95% confidence. Everything I've read says you can't screw it up as long as your marks are correct. And that makes perfect sense to me since the chain will tighten up the way it's supposed to be when the crankshaft starts turning. So even if I did have a bunch of slack in my chain, as long as my marks were correct it would have ended up in the right place since the camshaft wont turn until it's pulled the slack out of the chains.


Sorry if I'm rambling, I've just been working on the truck for like 2 weeks straight and can't comprehend what's wrong.


I'll check the things you mentioned this next time I put it together. Hopefully it'll run this next time. ='[
 
Old Dec 23, 2015 | 05:37 PM
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I have seen where the injector plugs were mixed up and firing at the wrong time , same thing with the coils. Each injector and coil should have a different color wire for each individual cyl. It does happen in spite of our best efforts. Just throwing some ideas out there .
 
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