If you need to get to Quick Test 6.0 check the "Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes" section I attached previously.

 

We are getting different suggestions for a vague problem.

By that I mean we seem to have more than one problem.

No need to replace anything until we test and assure something is malfunctioning or giving false info.

Does your engine have a Mass Air Flow sensor ? Code 98 is different for engines with a MAF sensor.

False or inaccurate info can result from corroded connections and if the scan tool is receiving false info,you will be there all day pulling your hair out chasing down wrong or inaccurate problems. Did you get a chance to check fuel system pressure. If pressure is inadequate ,it could give the symptoms you are getting. We don't jump to conclusions and possibly replace a good fuel pump if we don't verify the pump has the power (connections) to operate properly.

 

Yes j have a MAP but I replaced it a little over a year ago.I don’t have a fuel pressure guage at the moment but I came back out here and hooked the scanner back up, it pulled up 21 and 51. EGR is bypassed and has been when I bought it, I have no issues now? No engine light nor rough running, is it possible that I’m shorting somewhere?

 

If everything is good now,, GREAT !

Without touching anything !!!! ,retrace your steps and you might see where there could have been a questionable connection.

There is always the possibility if you touch a few places, the problem could return and you will have no idea of where,,,lol.

 

NOTHING WAS TOUCHED, and it returned, 98 came back up and ran rough but it was jumping on and off, running like a beaut to running like on its last leg. It’s gotta be something electrical right? I’ve changed all my sensors except my air temperature. But I think it’s more of a loose connection somewhere. But I know I can retrace what I did and go from there, hopefully I can find it

 

Code 21 + 51 locate ECT above. Just remove the electrical connector and clean both ends, also check for damage wires. ECT doesn't go bad, almost always a wiring problem. If you choose to remove ECT don't bother cleaning it's dirt cheap so just buy new (don't need Motorcraft brand), and you need to bleed if you remove it. If you have trouble removing trapped air bubbles, use floor jack and jack stands, simply elevate the front where your radiator cap is, so that it's at the highest point of the cooling system, much easier for the bubbles to escape.

 

Thank you, I’ll inspect it this week. I’ve been poking around n unplugging to see if a difference was made. My MAP sensor unplugged made the truck run better? I had more throttle response than it choking on me, and when I plugged it back in it struggled running. I replaced it about a year ago, (roughly 3,500 miles), should I replace it while I’m there?

 

Where did you purchase it? Should tell you something about it's quality.

 

I bought it from oriellys, I think they had a variety but not a lot. I’m thinking about going to Napa or autozone, other than spark plugs and wires I’ve had problems with parts from them, either wrong size or doesnt last long.

 

You have to keep in mind , stores are in business to make $$$, so they buy the stuff they make the most $$$ on.

How many times have you asked where is this part made ?

Some of those parts look really great , but are defective right out of the box. If they have to pay for inspection and quality control the price would be higher.

If you have no choice, you do what you must do. If you do have a choice and don't want to do the job over again after a short period of time consider paying a little more and usually you can forget about the problem, your choice again.

We can't win them all, but we never stop trying, yes/no ?